Hello, Gerardo again with another question. I have seen in the Hudson 8 engine crankshaft the notched nut for cranking. I do not have the cranking tool but am planning to make me one. However, I've recieved some comments regarding the engine to be too big for manually starting it and that even if I had the tool it will be unlikely to manually reaching enough inertia for the engine to start. Is there any experience on this issue?
Which year of Hudson Eight do you have? Different cranks were used for different years, but you might find a used one without having to purchase one.
For example, in the late 1930's the cranking tool consisted of two pieces: a Z-shaped crank (which was also had the socket for removing and tightening wheel bolts), and a straight extension rod which fit the other end of the Z-shaped crank (the other end of which fit the nut on the vibration damper). The extension rod was stored on clips at the top of the trunk on the sedan models, and many of these rods were later salvaged from derelict Hudsons.
As to the amount of force necessary to turn the engine in order to start it, someone may be able to give you their experience. I know that in my 6-cylinder 1937 Terraplane, it is not difficult at all to spin the engine and start it. You only have to turn it about 1/4 of a turn in order to start it, assuming that the engine is in good condition. Likewise, though the 8-cylinder may require more torque than the 6, you need only rotate the engine slightly to fire it up. However, if the engine is not in good repair, you could crank forever and it would never start.
Thank you Jon for your comments. It is a Brougham Eight 1937 convertible.
If it's a 37 then you definitely have the same cranking arrangement as my '37 (Terraplane) which is a Z-shaped handle and an extension rod. Your right might be longer than the Terraplane or Hudson 6 rod -- check the parts book for compatibility.
As I said, these rods were stored on clips at the top of the sedan trunks (not the convertible trunks) so many of these extension rods were salvaged when the cars were junked, because they tended to have a place to be stored (instead of getting lost). Contact some of the Hudson parts vendors in the WTN to see if they have any.
I found my crank handle at a Ford antique parts vendor, at a flea market. They look similar to a Ford crank handle but the measurements are different. Find someone with a similar handle and you can take the measurements from that -- check the HET roster to find the nearest person to you, who owns a 1937 Hudson Eight.
One question I've yet to have answered... where does one keep the crank in a 34H8 CV? On the 1934 Sedan and Coach there are clips in the trunk but no such provision in the convertible with a rumble seat.
I have both a two piece and the longer one piece crank but don't carry them as I don't want them rattling around on the floor.
:S
Jim
Jim, I'd be willing to bet that they either fit in a canvas tool pouch or that the extension had a separate pouch, so they wouldn't clank around in the trunk. Have you tried looking through your parts manual to see if perhaps there is a listing for the tool pouch alone, and another listing for the crank extension pouch on the coupe / convertible? I think the brougham and sedan models only had the clips for the extension rod, not the crank handle itself, right? The handle must surely have fit in the regular tool pouch.
John,
I've looked through the parts list and there's nothing listed as a Starting Crank pouch.
There is a [b]Tool Box - Complete [/b]listed with the following descriptions under so, I assume these were included in the Tool Box part number (or orderable separately):
Spark plug wrench
Monkey wrench
Hammer 12oz
Pliers 6"
Screwdriver 9"
Jack
Jack Handle extension
Socket wrench (wheel hub bolts)
Below the tool box listing there are part numbers listed for the Starting Crank, the Starting Crank Extension and the Starting Crank Auxiliary Extension... but no mention of a case or pouch to hold them. As they are listed separate it appears they were not in the included in the [b]Tool Box - Complete[/b].
Still a mystery...
Jim
Be very careful when you try to crank your engine. Retard the spark be cause if it kicks backwards, you will break your arm. Walt.
HI ALL I'M LOOKING FOR A CRANK FOR MY 34 SEDAN I HAVE THE CLIPS IN THE TRUNK FOR THE CRANK BUT SOME ONE HAS TAKEN THE CRANK THANKS FOR THE HELP
Paul, I don't know the '34's very well but those clips MIGHT be for the extension rod only. The Z-shaped crank handle may be a separate item in 1934, into which the square end of the extension is plugged.
Hello everyone, My Hudson 37 did not have the cranking tool, so I made one by welding a 1/4" x 1 inch round bar to a 5/8" round rod forming a T shape on one end and welding a 3/4 hex nut to the other end.
It is not intended to crank the engine to a start, my use is only to move the crankshaft and making sure everything moves properly in the engine.
Regards.
i don't mean to hijack a thread, but does anyone know what the '35 t-plane sedans used? with the car came a double universal jointed crank..so it could be folded back on itself. it is a pretty substantial crank..the only problem is a previous owner welded the 'U" joint solid. i am not sure if this style crank is original to the '35 t-plane sedans.
i picked up a "Z" crank on ebay as the socket size matches my lug bolts, but i am not sure if the long double jointed crank is correct, or the "Z" handle with extension is correct.
regards, tom
I finally took a few pictures of the TWO cranks I have for my 34H8. One is a one piece; the other is two pieces. As mentioned earlier in this trail, I do not carry either as on the CV there is no place to "clip" or fasten the cranks so, they just rattle around. My 34 H8 Coach had clips in the trunk that the crank snapped into.
FYI, the ruler pictured is a yard stick so, length of the assembled two-piece crank is 36".
Jim
Gerardo,
When my 1935 Hudson 8 has been sitting for the winter and I come to start it, I use the crank. Before I try to start it, I put gasoline in the float chamber, and turn the engine two turns with the choke closed, using the crank. Then I turn on the ignition. Usually the car starts with just one pull of the crank. It is not hard to pull.
Per Christiansen
Per is correct: It's not hard to start with crank.
Get a good mixture in the cylinder(s), bring it up on a compression stroke, and quickly snap over center. Ought to start on first or second try.
