Hello, I have a Hudson Brougham 8 that has been stored for the last 15 to 20 years. The car was stored in complete running conditions. The engine was repaired in 1968 as the whole car was restored.
Now, I want to prepare the engine for re-starting and have done some cleaning work. I have checked compression and found no compression in 6 cylinders. I suspect the valves were stuck in open position.
My next step could be to open the head-engine but I wonder where to get a head gasket and if there are any special conditions I should consider before opening the head-engine... does anyone have some comments?
Gerardo,
Yes, you would be correct by removeing the cylinder head and cleaning the valves and seats. Also inspect the cylinder walls for any rust. The headgasket is avilable from Dale Cooper. He also will have most of the engine parts you may also need.
Dale Cooper
Ace Auto Parts
7444 Vine & Paddock
Cincinnati, Ohio 45216-1712
Phone 513-821-1712
www.hudsonmotorcarco.com
Thank you Dave for the info, I will follow on it.
Additionally I am trying to find exploded views of the engine so I can have a better look of what to expect when oppening the engine head. Do you know where I can find it?
marvel mistery oil in all the cyl and try turning the engine over daily with a 12 volt battery , adding oil each time. for about a week with the plugs out.. I did this and my engine ran fine after it got hot engough to burn the oil out and loosen the valves.
Gerardo, I know of no ''exploded'' views of the Hudson Eight engine. Have you seen the Hudson repair manuals that are available to H-E-T members here at the Hudson club's website?
As to the stuck valves, I am afraid that this is a common problem for the older Hudson "splasher" engines which have been stored for a very long time. When I first acquired my 1937 6-cylinder Terraplane, the valves were stuck so badly that -- even though I removed the cylinder head -- I had to drive the valves down with a hammer!
One possibly suggestion would be to remove the valve covers on the side of the engine block, and to spray some penetrating oil (like WD-40) up into the valve guides from inside the valve chamber. You would use the little plastic tube which comes with the penetrating oil can, to guide the spray into the tiny space between the valve stem and the guide. Your valve stems may be too badly stuck for this to work but it might be worth a try, and would save you from having to remove the cylinder head.
We had the same issue with my dads 46 C8 after it sat for 20 years. The valves were stuck so badly we had to pull the head and remove the valves completely. The worst part of the job is pulling the manifolds without snapping the studs. You can wire brush the guides with a gun brush and get things cleaned up. If the last work did not include exhaust guides, these typically wear quickly. Good luck !
Before you remove the nuts from the studs that hold the exhaust manifold, heat the nuts one at a time and they will come right off. Walt's way.
Hello everyone. I have now removed the valve chamber covers on the left side of the engine, sprayed plenty of WD40 to the valve stems and into the combustion chambers. Valves are free now. I measured compression on each cylinder and had low readings on six cylinders, ranging 15 to 50 lbs. The other two cylinders gave no reading.
My next step will be to reassemble valve covers and oil pump. Next, squirt some oil to each cylinder and try to start the engine. Maybe the problem with the two zero compression cylinders is rust in the valve seats and my hope is that if the engine starts then the valve movement will eliminate that rust.
Any other ideas or suggestions?
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