I have pulled and stripped most external parts from my 50 commodore 8 engine. Currently working to remove crank, cam, valves and pistons and secure a price to refurbish.
I have removed 3 inner main and 8 connecting rod bearing caps.
Seeking further disassembly tips:
See photo:
1. Removal of front main crank bearing. Should this lift out after stud nuts are removed? I see a wick/gasket around parting line of the bearing cap. Does this provide lubrication or is it only to seal? Is the timing gear on the front end of the crank pressed onto the crank?
2. I have removed the timing gear from the end of the camshaft and I think I understand the alignment marks for reinstalling. How is the 3-hole drive sprocket attached to the front end of the cam? Is it pressed on or screwed onto the cam end? Also; what is the purpose of the spring and free-floating pin in the front end of the cam?
Thanks for the current and past help given.
Keith Kelly
Champlin, MN
1. The wicking is the oil seal. It takes some pull to get the bearing cap removed. There's a special tool for that (photo), but you can put two bolts in the cap and use a pry bar to lift the cap out, working slowly, a little bit on each side. The crankshaft timing gear is pressed in place. Use a gear puller to remove it.
2. The three-hole "sprocket" is actually the front of the camshaft. The spring and pin are to keep the camshaft to the aft end of it's end play. There's a phenolic spacer on the inside of the block, right behind the end-of-shaft "sprocket. Take care not to break it. If it's absent, look for broken pieces in the upper oil pan.
If you don't have one already, I strongly suggest that you get a Mechanical Procedure Manual (MPM) for your car. Most of these procedures are described in it. Read it several times and if anything fails to make sense or isn't covered in sufficient detail (the MPM leaves out a lot of the details, as does any such manual) then ask away!! Many of us here have been through it before.
Frank
Thanks Frank.
I do have a "MPM 500 Series". It has been an excellent reference, but I have not found details relating to internal engine disassembly other than tappet adjustments.
Is there another MPM that has this detail?
Thanks for being a great resource!
Keith
Agreed, manuals are woefully inadequate in many cases......Hudson is no different. In their defense, if they were to describe every detail, it would take volumes.
It will become obvious, but the cam can't be removed until the lifter guides and lifters are removed or at least up and out of the way. The lifters (followers) run in a slot in the guide that holds them in proper alignment with the cam.....a very important detail when it comes to re-assembly time. The cam lobe extends up into said slot and prevents the cam from being removed until the guides are out of the way. Since you are doing a complete tear-down, it must be done anyway but don't waste your time trying to get the cam out 'til the rest of the valve train is removed.
If the cam gear is Aluminum (it should be unless it has been replaced with a fiber gear) hire armed guards and take it to your lock-box at the bank. There are Hudson people hiding in the bushes, waiting to steal it.
Frank
Thanks for support to date:
Any recommendations on a machine shop to do cylinder honing, rings, rod and main bearing work as well as valves, seat and guide refurbishment. (1950 commodore straight 8.)
(I have 1 or 2 local shops that have been recommended.)
Keith Kelly
Champlin, Mn
It's much easier to remove the camshaft if you remove the lifters first. of course you also have to remove the fuel pump, oil pump, and distributor. You can then inspect the lifters, they will need either dressing or replacing. Just going through this process on a 1938 H8 myself.
Geoff
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