Glad you were reunited with your family's old car. Sounds like the restoration is going to be a labor of love, not necessarily one that's justified by cost concerns!

The eight cylinder engines can be tricky to restore even for a professional. Fortunately there are a number of expert Hudson mechanics in the Club, around the country. You could ship the engine to them for rebuilding, though it is going to cost a good deal of money. (I'm sure there are other non-Hudson engines -- as well as the reliable postwar Hudson sixes -- which could be dropped into the engine compartment of your car. Others have done this.

The Supermatic can definitely be removed without a trace, with no ill effects. If you don't want it. As to the Hydramatic (I think that is what you mean), I have no idea whether it can be fitted to the 1950 engine and body. Probably can.

Regarding the body, be sure you check out the perimeter frame in the vicinity of the rear wheel housings. If the car has sat outside for 56 years, you may find some rot back there, and you will want to budget for some frame work, accordingly.

I assume you joined the HET Club but if you haven't done so yet, I would recommend you do! It's a great clearinghouse of parts and technical information for Hudson lovers, as well as a great source of friends!

Not the expert on the hydramatic for 1950 conversion, but I think the chances are good that it could be adapted to your 1950 engine since all the basic components are really the same. The person to consult is Al Saffrahn -- he could tell you if it will work or now.

If you can successfully remove all parts of your Supermatic drive without damaging them, I might be interested in buying it. Let me know how much you want for it. You could break it down into all but the tranny/OD portion, or the entire setup. You can PM me.

Hydramatic tranny will not bolt to a 50 Hudson engine 6 or 8. The crank shaft does not have the pilot hole at the flywheel end. You can use a 51 or a 52 8 crank as they are all the same size, mains and rods. Walt.

thanks Walt!

Realizing that there are other considerations as well (linkages, shift lever, access holes in the floor, etc., etc.) I believe that the blocks are the same but the rear block-to-bellhousing plate is specific to the Hydra-Matics as is the frame cross-member under the trans. Also, if you are doing an overhaul, which is a realization that Keith will likely come to, the crank can be modified to accept the pilot bearing for the Hydra-Matic at that time. Not a task for an amateur, but it can be done.
Almost anything is possible but I'd suggest abandoning the Super-Matic and utilizing the original X-mission.
IMO, of course.
F

Keith,

I recently acquired a 1951 eight that last ran about the same time your car was stored in the woods. I am carefully following the advice which is offered in a topic that is in the "Hudson" strand: "I just bought a 1937 Terraplane Super 6". (Last posting October 2014)

This involves removing the oil pan and the dipper pan ( removable after taking off the oil pan) before being tempted to rotate the engine. On my engine, I found that most of the oil in the dipper trays had turned to a semi-solid mass. This would have plugged up the dippers on the connecting rods if I had rotated the engine.

If you decide to investigate the inside of your engine, there are tips for dealing with stuck valves in a topic which is in the "Hudson 8" strand: "Engine Stuck Valves". (Last posting February 2013)

Per

Keith,

Another interesting topic in the "Hudson 8" strand is: "Hudson 8 Rebuild" (Last post in April 2013)

There is information about finding a rebuilder for the engine. Also, there is a useful comment from Walt Mordenti about the oil pan gaskets and provision of oil in the dipper tray before starting the engine.

I am encouraged that my 1951 engine may not require rebuilding, since all the spark plugs look as if they were operating normally. However, since the carburetor was not on the engine, I will have to remove the intake manifold to remove a lot of acorns in it!

My opinion is that you should keep the overdrive transmission, but remove the supermatic drive, which makes things very crowded under the hood.

I have had a 1935 Hudson 8 for about 50 years. About 20 years ago I replaced its pistons and rings, as well as some of the exhaust valves. The bearings and cylinders were still good, so I did not have to send the engine to a rebuilder. A mechanic came to the car to grind the valve seats. I bought the car with 113,000 miles on it. It now has 156,000 miles.

Per

Keith,
I feel compelled to re-enforce Per's recommendation that you resist that urge to " make it run" without first doing some prep work. Here's an example (albeit extreme) of what you may find in the pan.

Frank, another picture of you BBQing hamburgers?

Thanks, Tim:
I will keep you posted is I decide to give up on my Supermatic Tranny.

Keith Kelly

Hi Per:
Thanks for the great input, including the reference to threads that will be of good value to me.
I have no idea where I'm headed, or when I'll get "there", but your input is giving me a sense of direction.
I'm excited.

Thanks again.

Keith Kelly

Thanks Frank:
Enforcement helps.
I will follow your suggestions.
Can you tell me- is there a best source for oil pan and head gaskets, etc, - or do most gaskets need to be "fabricated"?

Keith

Thanks for the helpful info, Jon:

I am looking forward to connecting with the great resources of the HET club.

Keith

Thanks Frank.
Your experienced input is giving me a sense of direction.
Thanks for being helpful.
Keith