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Broken Head Bolt
 
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Broken Head Bolt

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(@Robert Aman)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

What is the best way to remove a head bolt that is broken off, flush with the block. It is in the second row from the firewall, in the middle. I realize I may have to remove the engine, since it is a pacemaker and the position is under the firewall overhang.
Thanks, rust hater


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 9:48 am
(@Lance Walker)
Posts: 0
 

One way is to drill a smaller hole on the center of the broken stud and then use an easy out to remove the broken stud. Another way would be to tig or weld on an additional piece to use as a means being able to grab onto something and turn the broken threaded portion. Good luck.


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 10:26 am
(@Robert Aman)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I assume if either of these is used, a good heating of the surounding block and bolt is a good idea, and cooled, and then another heating of just the area around the broken stud, before attempting to remove?, Thanks [quote="Lance Walker" post=4263]One way is to drill a smaller hole on the center of the broken stud and then use an easy out to remove the broken stud. Another way would be to tig or weld on an additional piece to use as a means being able to grab onto something and turn the broken threaded portion. Good luck.


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 10:30 am
(@pfeifer)
Posts: 724
Prominent Member Registered
 

I've removed these by placing a 7/16 large diameter washer on top of the broken bolt. You can tape it in place, just there to help protect slag from getting on the block surface. Then using a mig welder, I build a vertical mound on top of the broken bolt high enough to than place a nut on top of the washer and weld that in place. Be sure to weld with high enough heat to actually weld the metal into the broken bolt and get decent penetration After the nut has cooled down, very gently start working the nut back and forth, then take your time turning the bolt out of the head, moving it back and forth the whole time. The heat from welding helps break the bolt corrosion up.
Be patient and you'll get it out.
Sometimes I'll soak the heated area with a good penetrate like Kroil before removing.


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 10:40 am
(@Bobbydamit)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Sounds great Kerry. I will find a good mig welder guy or gal, as I am a great pudddle welder, but that might not work here, and then try it. It might save me a block removal. Never heard of the washer part in 40 years as a mechanic. Nice touch B). Thanks, Bobby


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 10:49 am
 Plum
(@plum)
Posts: 85
Trusted Member Registered
 

I have done similar to what Kerry said, but I put a 7/16 nut on top of the broken bolt. Then I filled in the nut with the mig welder (puddle)which attached the nut to the bolt. When it cooled, a wrench on the nut easily removed the broken bolt. I like the washer idea. A little extra precaution is always good


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 2:02 pm
(@Richard Dryman)
Posts: 0
 

may help>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4zohssWS7I


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 2:13 pm
(@pfeifer)
Posts: 724
Prominent Member Registered
 

Worth a shot if you only have an arc welder. I may try it sometime.


 
Posted : 23/02/2014 10:44 pm
(@Richard Dryman)
Posts: 0
 

You can use a MIG welder with a stud broken at surface; use washer same size as stud and nut slightly larger than stud; weld nut to stud, filling nut. Washer is to prevent welding to block.


 
Posted : 24/02/2014 1:13 pm

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