I use Quartz halogen headlight bulbs in my 6 volt 28 Essex Coupe. Much brighter lights for the same current draw as regular bulbs so no additional load on the generator.
Here in New Zealand we can get qh bulbs with the correct base so it's just a drop-in fit.
I think the bulbs are Australian manufactured, I don't know who supplies them in the US but assume that they will be available there. At about NZ30.00 each, I think they are good value

Discussion moved to "Hudson" section of forum.

Do you use the 25 or 35 watt variety. Math with volts and watts and amps has never been my strong suit....

Benjamin, what year is your Hudson? Does it have standard sealed-beam lights? I've installed 6v halogen bulbs and accompanying reflector/lens assemblies on my'47, and they're fabulous. Brighter than the 12v sealed beams on my Hornet, and also has the "sharp cutoff" beam that doesn't throw much light above a certain level. Cost was about $150, but well worth it. Google Little British Car Co.

There is always an add for them in the back of the AACA club magazine.

First, are you sure your present lights are working to their maximum brightness? It is possible that your wiring and headlight / dimmer switches are corroded or that the connections are not up to par.

One way to check this would be to run a cable directly from the battery to the terminals on the back of the bulb, while the light is on. If the light brightens considerably when you do this, that's a sign that your present wiring and switches are carrying less than a full load. It might also indicate that a relay might be called for; this would cause the power to bypass the old switches and go directly to the headlights.

Also, consider your ground. (I'm not sure whether the lamps's positive terminal grounds to the body, or makes its way back to the battery.) Once again, you could do a test by running a cable from the ground terminal of the lamp, directly to the positive terminal on the battery, and see if the lights brighten when you do that.

Putting in more modern lamps (like halogen) is all very well, but if your car's wiring and switches are shot, it's going to be an exercise in futility.

I agree with Jon. I put a relay on my 53 a few years ago and that maintains the lumens at idle, when idle falls below the cutin speed for the regulator. Halogen bulbs use a lot of current and get HOT. They also may stress out the Circuit Breaker in the switch with the added current draw. They will be brighter, but I don't believe it is worth the cost/time if the system is up to par. Put a relay in and addition to brighter lights, you will probably never have to replace a circuit breaker in the headlight switch.

Depends on how bright is bright enough, I suppose. The perils indicated above haven't happened to my '47 in 3 yrs of service.

[quote="Ron Sotardi" post=3730]I agree with Jon. I put a relay on my 53 a few years ago and that maintains the lumens at idle, when idle falls below the cutin speed for the regulator. Halogen bulbs use a lot of current and get HOT. They also may stress out the Circuit Breaker in the switch with the added current draw. They will be brighter, but I don't believe it is worth the cost/time if the system is up to par. Put a relay in and addition to brighter lights, you will probably never have to replace a circuit breaker in the headlight switch.

The 6 volt halogen bulbs in my 28 Essex Coupe are rated 35w/35w. Whilst they do get hot, they can't draw more than 35 watts per bulb. I am running new wiring with relays & I'm very happy with these lights & have been for 5 years (12,00 miles) No problems so far!!

That's great. I'm curious, what is the generator(dynamo) capacity in amps on the Essex?

[quote="Ron Sotardi" post=3740]That's great. I'm curious, what is the generator(dynamo) capacity in amps on the Essex?

Good question Ron. I've upgraded my generator to a late 30's with probably a 35 to 40 amp max. It was nearly a drop in fit with the direct drive from the accessory box meaning I had to remove the generator pulley. Even so the headlights only draw 12 amps between them.

Today at 9:25 AM

David, when you say 12amps that is the standard 1930s "projector" bulbs, not halogen, right? I have a Model A Ford(1931) and the Generator maxs at 20amps... eek. The bulbs are 32/32 or about 5.5amps each. When I turn on the lights the amp gauge drops to 0 charge and discharges a bit at idle with the original cutout ( no regulator yet). I was curious what Fords competition, the Essex, offered in a charging system. My "Motors" only goes back to 1931. The thought of Halogens and their amp draw is out of the question without modifications and a 6v alternator, which some in the Mafca /Marc have done. But now, Brattons Ford parts sells direct replacement halogen bulbs that need no modifications , at least on Fords. If the two cars use the same bulb bases, you can swap the incandescent for halogen at 25/25 35/35 at 6volt for $27 US each. Would the halogens be a lumen advantage over the original bulbs at the same candle power (wattage)?

Nothing like answering my own question. The halogen bulb will produce a whiter light and 10% more lumens than an incandescent bulb of the same wattage. Whether that is worth the cost, is your call.