Larry, there aren't many items that need a resistor to drop the 12v to 6, so that isn't a cumbersome part of converting to 12v. I've got a lot of useful info on the conversion that can save you some time. Drop me an email at pwald@comporium.net and I'll send you a copy.

What do you do about the solenoids in the over drive? I can understand the other items ( that don't draw a lot of current or could be replaced by 12V components ), but the 6V Solenoids used in the over drive draw significant current and don't think there is a 12V version available.

BST RGDS,
GARY P

Some folks have taken the risk and just used the 6v solenoid. I prefer to reduce the risk of failure when possible. Best solution is to find a 12v solenoid from an early 12v Chevy, Ford or Studebaker with OD. There is a source for new ones, a fellow who specializes in Ford OD parts ... vanpeltsales.com. The bad news is that they're $265.

Another approach is to get a '48-'49 6v solenoid, which has separate connections for the pull-in coil and the hold-in coil. That allows you to put an appropriate resistor in the feed for the hold-in coil, which is energized for long periods. The pull-in coil is pretty hefty, so can withstand the momentary application of 12v when the OD cuts in. The wiring for this is very simple ... run the power wire to the pull-in coil terminal on the solenoid, the run a short jumper with the resistor in it to the hold-in terminal. The resistor should be a 4 ohm, 25 to 50 watt "wire-wound" type.

my thoughts were to only power new apps, such and electronic ignition or ac with the 12, use the delimiter to step down the 12 to 6 to run all the original apps. Would not effect a change in operation of the step down switch, relay, or OD unit itself......I am no electrical guru, can not really discuss the point in any depth or defend my thoughts, just looking for a simple solution, let the new power grabbers get the juice required and the simpler old system get the stepped down voltage

Describe the nature of the "delimiter."

Maintain constant voltage without looping, Ford used this well into the 70s protecting the lower voltage requirements of the various dash gauges, my thoughts was to use this concept inline with the step down from 12 to 6 to maintain constant voltage to the original 6v. circuits....hoping someone with more DC experience than me had some thoughts, I can hot wire a Model A Ford if need be, but that is about it.

This may not be what you're looking for, but here's a company that sells a 12-6 battery and a 6-12 battery. Start at 12 volts, run the rest of the car off 6. Possibly you could tap into the 12-volt side to run your more modern accessories. http://antiqueautobattery.com/accessories.html

I'm not sure, but can't you use an inverter (?) to get 12 volts out of your six volt system, for running smaller accessories. As to air conditioning, I know a fellow who has installed AC on his '54 Hornet and that car is still on a 6-volt system. Something about weakening the spring on the compressor solenoid (?).

Frankly, I've been using 6 volts for the last 40 years on my '37 Terraplane, with no problems. Of course, I use one with ample cold cranking amps (780) and my cables and straps are all of the proper gauge for 6 volts.

Jon, What is the correct gauge for battery cables for a 6 volt system? I have heard may ideas from many people through the years

I'm no expert so I googled the question. Seems that a lot of people prefer "0" or even "00" (also known as 2/0) gauge cable. You can find 2 and even 1 gauge at Tractor Supply (lots of older 6-volt tractors are still in use). Dave Kostansek used to (and possibly still does) sell the proper gauge cable, in different lengths. You could also try Northwestern Auto for cables and many other vintage parts: http://northwesternautosupply.com/ourStory.html

Thanks Jon. will check local shops

You will find 1 ga. cables available in various lengths at NAPA. For a given electrical load, a 6V system will draw twice the current as a 12 V system (generally speaking), thus the requirement of a larger cable or wire for 6. They are necessarily somewhat expensive as it takes lots more Copper to make them. Starters draw a ton of current, hence the need for a big cable for that job. It's my opinion that anything heavier than a 1 Ga is a waste of money and Copper for our ordinary automotive applications.
I'll scare up a few NAPA part numbers for examples. Your favorite NAPA counter-person can give you details (end condition, jacket material) if you want it.

23" 712431 (I think this one has eyes both ends)
20" 711931
16" 711631
14" 711431
12" 711031

Frank

Methinks he probably means a votage reducer. Also Fith Ave Garage.com sells solenoids , relays, etc for O/D, Expensive though.

Someone converted my '51 Hornet to 12v before I bought it. After going through 5 starters, I converted it back to 6v, which ended the problems.