Mike,
A proper puller is an absolute necessity for removal of the tapered-bore hubs/drums. Although it's not a requirement to use the specific puller mentioned in the book, it must be a pretty stout tool for that job. Even with substantial pull, it may take a bit of coaxing in the form of heat and careful shock to break them loose. It's not recommended that you strike the end of the puller screw to do so, due to the possibility of shattering the hardened thrust button on the inboard end of the axle shaft, but I have been known to pull outward on the puller and then give it a moderate rap with a two-pounder. So far, I've never damaged one. I have seen the threaded end "squished" (not by me) from over-tightening of the puller screw. It's a special 3/4-20,extra-fine thread, not easily repaired. I use a center-drilled 3/4-20 cap-nut as a go-between to protect the shaft's threaded end.
Good luck,
Frank

Mike, any good 3-arm brake drum puller will work. You can (or at least used to be able to!) rent these from a tool rental company, if you don't want to buy one for yourself. But it's not a bad investment since you will need one every time you wish to work on the rear brakes or grease your rear axle bearing.

Paul Schuster has devised a very nice photographic tutorial which is posted on our Gallery. If you cannot get there through [url= http://hetclub.org/index.php?option=com_simgallery&view=album&aid=26 ]this link[/url] , simply open the "Gallery" link above, then look down about 35 albums to find Paul's album on drum removal.

Thanks guys, for the knowledge and the link!

Mike

Mike, I bought my puller from NAPA. Rather than pay 1/2 the cost to by them a new one, I just got it for myself. It worked just fine on my 1950 Pacemaker, and on my 41 Hudson coupe. I have several Mopars and they all need the same type of wheel puller it you have to get the drum off. Good investment. But do be careful how you use it - I think Paul probably has posted a good procedure.

I used to rent these pullers, until about 15 years ago when I bought one. I went to a local tool dealer and ordered one out of their catalog, I think it's an "Old Forge" brand. Worth every penny too!!!!

Last question, do only the rear wheels need the puller or fronts too? The fronts seem stuck on pretty well too but wanted to check before putting the screw to 'em... They resisted the rubber mallet like an armoured truck!

only the rears are the tapered axles. You should be able to get the front ones off without too much trouble.

Mike,
We should all be as lucky as to have them come off easily, but the fronts may turn into a project as well. The issue lies with the lip at the OD of the drum bore where the brake shoe lining [i]doesn't[/i] touch the drum as it wears. That hang-up is where the trouble is. One may simply retract the shoes with the adjuster......if it isn't seized as it probably [i]is[/i]. Spray, tap, wiggle, ad nauseam 'til it will turn, and realize that it may be a left hand thread (I don't remember off hand if one is). If the drums are within max dia. allowed, they may be turned but if they are that large, be sure to have the shoes arced to match. If not, you still won't have good brakes. The notion that they will "wear in" is a dangerous substitute for doing it right. If the bearings are in good enough condition to re-use, mark them so as to keep them mated with their respective cups. They mate for life.
Frank

Oh, and no puller should be necessary!

Howsomeever, if the shoes are rusted to the drums, and/or the adjuster is rusted and won't turn, you need to remover the large anchor nut on the top inside of the backer plate. This will release the shoes and the little retainer pins will break and then you can deal with the adjuster etc on the bench.

If you're installing modern shoes, you'll need to adjust the anchor pin anyway per Walt Mordenti's instructions.

Frank,

I don't think people are having the shoes arced anymore. They basically stopped doing that some time ago. A lot of debate about how necessary that really is from what I've heard.

Don't believe all you hear.
I respectfully disagree.........The effect of a poor match for radii between shoe and drum may be a drastic reduction in contact area when brakes are applied, depending of course, on the degree of mismatch. In one instance, a friend was complaining that he'd just done a brake job on his F-1 pick-up and the brakes barely worked. He'd repeatedly bled the system (isn't that what they always do?) with no improvement. Granted, the pedal wasn't as hard as it should have been, but it wasn't air that was the culprit.
In addition to the shoe contact being reduced to about 25% of the available contact area, the shoe was being flexed as the wheel cylinders attempted to make the shoe fit the drum. Dangerous all the way around. The heat generated due to the concentration of friction in a small area can't be good either.
In less extreme cases, they may "wear in" but how many chances for disaster do you think will present themselves before that happens? One is too many.
It's not common for anyone to do it any more, largely I suppose, because drum brakes are less common and certainly because few care any more and lack the proper equipment to do it. There is a correct way to do everything, and it's Frank's opinion that arcing of shoes in a drum brake job is on that list of steps to do it right.
Call me picky......it makes me feel good.
Frank