To start with my 1946 Hudson pickup came to me with 6 volt converted to 12 volt. While adding step down resistors to my fuel gauge and temperature gauge, I was confronted with a "rats nest' of wiring behind the dash, well, while troubleshooting I pulled the large wire connector at the top drivers side of the firewall, ( I may note that all of my lights worked previously to include: headlights, tail lights, turn signals, and stop lights). When pulling the previously mentioned connector, half of the male and or female pins broke off (I should have left well enough alone), and this is where my troubles began. I cut all wires associated with this connector and spliced them per the colors of the wires . Now I have headlights, brake lights and turn signals, but NO tai lights. Per the 1946 wire schematic, the headlight switch has a "bullet" connector with yellow wire that goes to the Hi-Lo beam foot switch, a "bullet" connector with red wire that goes to fuse panel, and a screw in terminal with 2 wires, one of these wires (green/yellow) goes to a rheostat, which I don't have, and a black wire that shows spliced into a white wire into the harness somewhere. Whenever I connect this black wire to any wire associated with what I think are lighting wires the lighting fuse blows. Who ever wired the "rats nest" of wiring at least had all of the lights working, but now my proactiveness has "screwed me. Could the change to 12 volt changed the polarization of some of the harness? Before the question is asked, all bulbs have been replaced to accept 12 volts. It should be noted that with headlight switch on, at the headlight junction block with 6 screws, I have power at the 2 forward sets of 4 screws, but no power at the rearmost set of 2 screws. Hopefully someone out there can help me, it is probably something simple that I am over looking, meanwhile I am buying 30 amp fuses in bulk. Thank you for reading my long winded post, Kevin Morrow 302ninefourthree8197
I used an after market harness from Kwik Wire company when I converted my 46 pickup to 12 volts. All wires are labeled,nice fuse box attached,built in kill switch. Extra wires for electric pump,A/C, electric fan wires. The wires I didn’t use I rolled up and tucked out of the way. I used a single wire GM alternator available with the wide belt pulley. I used a GM side terminal battery to eliminate chance of battery shorting against hood.
Thank you for your reply. I purchased 14 circuit Kwik wire kit since my last post. You must have been reading my mind. Installation so far has been OK. Instructions slightly ambiguous. I don't have neutral safety switch, so not sure where to put "purple" neutral safety switch wire from engine group bundle, I believe it goes to top of starter solenoid, and then goes back to push button start switch per page 25 of instructions. They mention through out instructions "Starter Battery lug" which I know is a no brainer, how ever on page 25 under PUSH START IGNITION, it shows wire #19 (purple) without neutral safety switch going directly to start side of starter. Do they mean Battery lug on starter solenoid or the small stud on top of the solenoid. It should be noted that my starter has 12 volt solenoid Sorry for the long explanation, and I appreciate the help. Kevin Morrow
