[b][size=100]Download the 1950 Mechanical Procedure Manual and read section 6.[/size][/b]

Thanks Ed. Don't know how it got by me the first few times. Inattention I bet.

For the uninitiated, the info in question can be found be found on page 6-8 and 6-9 (1950 Hudson Mechanical Procedures Manual). It reads:

1. On Drivemaster equipped cars, it is necessary to remove Drivemaster mounting bracket bolts , disconnect linkage, and pull bracket out and forward to allow removal of the starter motor.

That seems pretty straight forward, but I am having a bear of a time finding all the fasteners. Can someone paint me a picture? Thanks again.

I found some more relevant info in a 1967 Drive-Master service information booklet. In order for the starter assembly to be removed, the transmission control switch needs to be removed. In order to remove that, the distributor needs to come out. So, lots of steps just to check or replace a starter. Weather permitting, I will have the thing running this weekend. Stay tuned 🙂

Darren, after posting my reply a month ago to the effect of, "just take the starter out," I've been following your travails.  Dang.  That's much more stuff in the way than my 1953 Hormet with Hydramatic tranny.  In my car you can literally lean over the fender, reach in, disconnect the wires, take out the two mounting bolts, and hold in in your hand.  So let me ignorantly ask, is it easier to take the starter out the bottom of the car, or is there still too much stuff in the way?  

Bottom or top, the starter still has to go enough forward to clear the studs and get the bendix through the hole (looks like it will rotate and exit from below after that).

Last time I changed a starter on an inline six, it was a 20 minute operation on a '61 Falcon. At least this time I get to learn Exciting New Things. 🙂

Just to enhance the learning experience, I have decided to keep the drive-matic system and make it work. As far as I can tell, all the parts are present and accounted for.  Worst case scenario is wasted time and having to shift with the clutch, like some kind of savage.

Let me offer another possible suggestion for “next time”. If you replace the studs with bolts, then you won’t have to move the starter forward another inch and a half before you can tilt it down or sideways. 

The thought did cross my mind, but I couldn't see how to pull those collared studs. Are they in some kind of key hole?

Suggestion when you replace the studs with bolts: make a 'stud' with a purchased bolt that is about 1/2" longer than the current studs; cut off the head, then cut a slot with a Dremel for a screwdriver. AFTER the starter is removed, put this 'stud' in the topmost hole. That allows you to have a 'stud' to 'hang' the starter on when you put it back on. Hang it, then put a bolt loosely in the bottom hole, remove the 'stud' and replace it with a bolt. Unless you are very strong and dexterous, it is difficult to hold the starter and start the bolts. I use a lift for the '53 and it is difficult otherwise !

“Unless you are very strong and dexterous, it is difficult to hold the starter and start the bolts. I use a lift for the '53 and it is difficult otherwise !”

Heh, heh—or you buy a modern compact lightweight 12V starter like I did!  It weighs less than half of those original cast-iron starters. 

 Darren, I’m not sure if the studs in your car are different than my 53 Hornet (I’ve been wrong about that already), but the “double nut” method should get them out.  

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AlqXTowCsi4Uh-gBODlCnV97jJeZgw?e=FatG5K

12V Hi Torque Starter for 48-54 Hudson with Standard Transmission

That’s very similar to what I bought. Mine has a series of holes drilled in the mounting plate so that you can “clock” the starter motor relative to the mounting plate, so that you can get best clearance between the starter and the side of the block or the steering gear.  I’ll send a picture later.  

Finally got it out and it isn't stuck at all. Still had a lot of grit inside, but it rotates and slides. The Hudson/Delco tag is still on it as well as the distribitor and generator. Makes me think the odometer is being truthful. Probably will send it out for rebuild just to avoid a sequel.

Also removed the (dealer profit center) Kargard overriders. Looks a lot cleaner now.

[b][size=100]Darren

What is the number on your Hudson / Delco starter? It should be an Autolite.[/size][/b]