I'm in the process of pulling engine and trans from my 52 hornet. pulling single carb. version with hydramatic trans. I'm using a "cherry picker", nice heavy duty one, not collapsible style. I'll be hooking a chain to head bolts I guess..... I don't have the official attachment so would like to know if anyone has opinions on where on the engine to hang it. I'm hoping to get it right and only pull 2 head bolts, ( although this engine might be coming apart anyway) Looking for the balance point to keep it from going crazy tipping coming out. Also, though I'll probably figure it out when I remove the crossmember, does the parking brake cable have to be removed from where it runs through the crossmember.?.. looks like a PITA! Thanks for any info offered.
Hello, YES, the parking brake cable has to be removed by pulling up the U shaped clip at where the cable housing form the parking brake handle passes through the back of the cross-member. it looks like a smaller version of a brake hose clamp. Clean the dirt and grease off and you will see it. A pair of pliers or vise grips to grasp the tab should allow you to pull and wiggle it up and off. Next remove the clevis pin from the threaded adjuster clevis were it attaches to the parking brake draw-bar. Loosen the lock nut and unthread the clevis off the threaded end of the cable. Now you can pull the cable forward out of the cross-member. Put the lock nut and clevis back on the cable end so you don't lose them.
I use a load leveler to allow me to adjust the angle of the engine and transmission to get them out safely without smashing the firewall, or bashing the engine or Hydramatic oil pans.
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Thank you for your response. The tighteners in the first picture is what confused me. I was just befuddled because I don't recall the cable being mentioned in the manual, guess I just missed it. Anyway, it's out. I have a rebuilt engine with twin H going in. I'll get the leveler prior to that task. Came out with no issues but would certainly be better to deal with angling the unit. The ratchet strap on the trans is how I kept it from shifting. Crude but got er done. Thanks again for the reply. Now for all the clean up.
Those two cable tighteners shown are not mentioned in the shop manual because they don't even belong there. That was someone's half-assed attempt to compensate for either stretched cables, mis-adjusted rear brake shoes, or the rear parking brake spreader bar at top of the shoes, just under the wheel cylinder being installed backwards, or some other issue. New parking brake cables are made by: George Martin Brake Cables, 1510 King Street, Lebanon, PA 17042 [email]brakecables1@pa.net[/email] Ph: 717-273-9502
I meant the cable going through the cross member.. I realize the tighteners were "unnatural" There are actually a couple more further down the line. I have replaced all the brakes, wheel cylinders, lines, etc. I think they are seated correctly. the parking brake works. This car was in a barn/garage since 1972 when I bought it a couple years ago. People did crazy things sometimes. thanks again.
James ---Kudos for getting the car back on the road! Is it a 2 or 4 door?
4 door. Thanks. It's been a ton of work but the car was screaming for help... No rust underneath, most fasteners come off with just a shot of lubricant. A joy to work on..... I have another issue though.. Pulled the trans and the torus cover has broken and loose springs.. I'm going to post a question about that. Not sure what the solution is.
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