Gents: I’m working my way through my list of fixes on my 1953 Hudson Hornet, and I’m now looking at the front main seal. It leaks. Not a gusher, but I get oil drips when I park, as well as the usual oil on the front frame cross member and underside of the car. It’s a common problem from what I’ve read so far. The engine casting number is 304538, serial number 166231. Has Twin H intake (not sure if that was original or put on later). The engine has 7/16” head studs with nuts, not bolts. Was that original on this engine, or did it have head bolts?
What is involved with replacing this seal? Is it a rope seal or a neoprene lip seal? Can I pull off the front pulley without removing the radiator? Any tricks or traps to watch out for?
Thanks in advance.
Flat rate manual states 2.3 hours to replace the seal, so allow at least twice that! Trickiest part is removing the vibration dampener. Once you have that off it is a piece of cake. Seal is a modern neoprene seal that presses into the case.
Can I pry out the seal once the pulley/harmonic dampener is off, or do I have to take off the timing cover too? If the latter, then I will need to order a timing cover gasket. How about the radiator?
It can be done without removing the radiator. The timing case has to be removed. The seal is inserted form the inside. Workshop manuals are available on the club website explaining how to do it.
If you try this without removing the radiator, do yourself a favor, and tie a piece of plywood, or masonite, or something up against the radiator core to protect it while you are working in there. If you think the radiator needs some attention... Maybe now is the time.
Yeah, the more I look at it, the more I’m wondering how I’ll get a puller on the balancer/pulley to get it out. Maybe removing the radiator will be easier.
I always pulled the radiator out to do this, if engine was in the car. You best get the new crank spacer sleeve that the seal rides on as well as the red Natiional 1/2" thick double lip seal. There is a thin cheap green CR seal that fits, but usually it dribbles and spits oil at the cruising rpms. I recommend you use a harmonic balancer installer tool that you can get as a loaner from Oreillys or Autozone that allows you to safely press the spacer sleeve and the harmonic balancer back on safely. It uses a thrust bearing. I also used this tool to press on a new crank sprocket when changing out the timing chain and sprockets, with a proper length of steel or copper tubing to make up the gap. Never pry or hammer on the harmonic balancer. There originally was a special tabbed lock washer for the big 3/4"- 16 bolt. It is advisable to have this washer in place. It is often missing after so many years.
Ken, thanks again. I’m in your debt.
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