After getting frustrated with my '36 6 cylinder not starting, and checking the spark, I conclude that my coil and likely condenser are bad. Since they are both at least 45 years old, I'm not surprised. Does anyone know a NAPA part number for a replacement? I just want something that works; the original style is unnecessary.

Also, am I correct that the negative post on the coil goes to the ignition switch and the positive post to the distributor? That seems right but I don't want to cook anything.
Thanks!

You are correct. positive to coil. If you cannot find a specific 6 volt coil, then you can just use a 12 volt one that specifies "to be used with external ballast". You just don't use a ballast!

As far as capacitors go, anything between .18 and .22 uf is okay.

John. I recently went thru some 'spark' issues on my '36 212 and received some very good pointers from Doug Wildrick, Geoff Clark, Jon Battle and others, all who helped steer me in the right direction. I replaced my coil with a NAPA IC7 and as far as the condenser, as Geoff points out, you can use any that tests in the .20 +/- microfarad range (there isn't a 6 volt vs. 12 volt condenser - rather, you are looking for a certain capacitance rating). The nowadays 'store bought' condensers aren't well constructed, but you can get lucky. You might want to consider searching Ebay for a better made NOS Bosch condenser, made in Germany. It doesn't matter that it was made for a BMW or a VW....it will likely be in the .18 to .22 mf range and you can use it. If you don't have one, get a little multimeter that tests both resistance of the coil and capacitance of the condenser....but be aware that they only test the 'resting' rating of each component in order to decide if you even want to put it on your vehicle -- they do not test them in terms of hardiness or leakage under load.....for that test, the average person like me has to install them and see how they do....the not so average person has a 'fancy' tester which would test them under load while they are uninstalled. Now, as my fellow club members have pointed out, never make assumptions when it comes to the spark, or lack thereof....and never assume it's only one thing It could be a combination of issues, or issues taking turns. They directed me to the distributor: carefully check the play on the shaft as the bushings do wear out, causing the points to open/close inconsistently. The bushings in mine were worn and caused too much play in the shaft and I ended up replacing them. Also, importantly, make sure the spring-loaded advance plate, just under the top plate is working freely - if it sticks in the advanced position, it will cause hard starting. Mine was indeed sticking, but it cleaned up nicely and a light lube with wd40 will hopefully keep I that way. Also make sure nothing is grounding within the dist where it shouldn't be - and that ground connections where they should be are well connected. (Make sure there is good insulation where the lead comes thru the dist housing to the points and that there is good insulation betw the points and the dist housing). Also, very important, make sure the condenser is well grounded to the outside of the dist. Of course make sure your timing is set right, as well as points gap.....and don't forget the dist cap and rotor....it's hard to see visible problems with them, but sometimes changing them can make a world of difference. I once went thru everything I mentioned above, only to find out the rotor was bad (prob poorly made)....but I couldn't see any visible probs with it! If all of this is stuff you already know, my apologies, but maybe someone else can use the pointers.

Jared; your thoughtfully written explanation of the experiences you have had in the maintenance and repair of your vehicles' electrical system assures all who read it are helped to make valid decisions. Thank you for taking the time create your detailed write-up. Ken Cates

Jared, I also appreciate your detailed and well thought out analysis of the possible problems with a weak or non-existent spark. I well certainly look at all these potential reasons why I'm not getting much, or any, spark. I do have a question though, do you (or any other reader) know what the resistance should be between the coil connections? I understand they will perform differently under load, but if I knew what the ohms should read on my work bench I could tell if my coil (I have a couple) was total junk or not. Such as, reading open or not.

John, a six volt coil should be in the .5 to 2.5 ohm range (from connector to connector) and 5K to 10K from either connecter to the 'tower'. They vary a lot. At least you know you can give them a try if in that range.....but keep in mind that if any motor with a distributor/points system runs good when cold, but starts to cough and lag when warmed up, both the coil and/or condenser should be considered a suspect (they both can behave badly when they heat up, usually caused by an internal short).