The signal switch requires the “u” shaped upper piece to attach the mechanical switch to the steering column. Use the link to my website to find used Hudson piece needed.
https://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/

Thank you Ken. I'll see what I can find.

Gary, we have anything you might need here. Give Cole a call or email him at info@wrphet.com

Hi Doug,

Thanks for the information. I'll give Cole a call and see what we can put together. I appreciate the help!

Gary

You have to change the mast jacket tube for one with the cutout at the bottom where the switch mounts. I have a later (51-54) column with directional And later steering wheel in my 46 pickup. with the original 46 steering box. The whole unit fit right over the 46 steering shaft. I had to add a small piece to the bottom of the tube to fit over the steering box . I cut a piece from another tube and attached it to the bottom.

*** - I also wanted to add this for technical purposes.

When converting the standard,NOT Factory turn signal equipped column tube , you must have a cut away at the bottom, which we know. This rectangular opening must be located correct and the bearing inside the tube must be pressed downward, just past the rectangular opening in order for the column centering support cone and spring to function properly as well. Before cutting the tube, you should have the new, required different parts in hand. Those parts consist of the top yoke, which goes onto the shift shaft tube, and must be located so it depresses the spring at the bottom of the column tube. The new, factory turn housing has 2 threaded holes that tighten/clamp it tight. The top must be located correctly and continue to apply tension for proper shifting operation. The hole at 9:oo was to secure the yoke from turning,now will be obsolete, and not used. The 2 holes you see in the tube from the old set up are are located wrong for the new set-up.
** - BEFORE removing the original, none fact. turn yoke, mark the tube in some way at the 12:00 position for a reference that will stay and be legible before removing the yoke. This is a very important reference, as you will have to drill a hole in the 12:00 position in the tube, and install a small, round headed post-[I use a #10 screw, cut off to about .200.] -
With the old yoke removed, take your new yoke, slide it on top of the column and shift tube, depress it downward to compress/apply tension, on the spring at the bottom of the shift tube. You are not trying to compress the spring completely, just make contact and add some tension,holding in that position, take a black marker, draw a line across the top edge of the yoke. This should now be your new reference of where the yoke will be located once you have re-assembled you column. With that said, take a ruler, and/or a caliper,turn the top yoke upside down, and you will see the hole where the pin will be, measure from the edge of the yoke to the center of the hole to be drilled. Now with that distance known, transfer it over to the column, and drill the hole as needed. Now, install the pin or whatever you found to work into the hole, slide the new yoke into place. You should have to press slightly down on the yoke before it will seat onto the round tube. Taking a piece of 2" masking tape, wrap the bottom half of the tube. Holding it into place, you can now take the bottom piece and somewhat mate it up to the top yoke. With this done, now take your marker, draw a reference line on the bottom of the tube on the tape. Using your ruler or other somewhat accurate measuring device, mark out the rectangular hole needed. If you look closely, the housing has small cleats-[for lack of proper description]- sticking up on each corner of the housing. Once you are confident the top yoke and the bottom housing are located correctly, you must move the bearing located inside the tube down past where you will be cutting your new rectangular window. You MUST be VERY careful when moving the bearing down, as if you don't, all the ball will fall out of it, and will have to be replaced. I assist this by simply taking a few Q-Tips, loaded full of grease, grease the bearing generously all the way around inside, then slide the cone into the center before trying to drive it down. I use a piece of PVC tubing that fits perfectly to the inside diameter of the tube, and about 8" long and makes perfect contact on the outside of the bearing race. You must make sure the bearing is down far enough to clear the opening. If you drive the bearing a little past the opening, don't sweat it, you will just have to find a spacer to slide over the actual steering shaft to shim up, making the spring have the correct amount of tension, which isn't a whole lot.

This might sound complicated to some here, but it is really relatively simple! I use a Dremel with the cut-off wheel to make the precise incision in the tube. You might have to do a little final clean up on the hole using a file or a different bit in your Dremel. Hope this helps.

An additional note- verify the yoke at the bottom of the steering column is NOT loose and is located about .250-.500 from the clamp. Making sure of this still will give you room to adjust the shift tube if needed.

Hi Doug,

Wow....call me naive! I really thought the adaptation of a factory turn signal switch was as simple as replacing the upper shift control arm bracket attaching the turn signal switch to it and then running the wires. I had no idea! Is all of the cutting and retrofitting because this switch is self canceling. If that is the case, I guess it makes sense. The factory manual makes the installation look very simple. None of these installation steps is mentioned. I am now wondering if I really want to get into this. I'll have to read your instructions a couple more time to get a feeling for all the steps and important points you make. Thanks again Doug. This is very helpful.

Gary

Gary, this might sounds like a lot of work, but it really goes rather quickly, especially with these directions. Most of the time it takes more effort to remove the damn steering wheel than it takes to do the job. The factory turn signal/ dealer installed kit would have come with a new tube with the necessary cut out in it. If you like, I think we have that as well, so you can go to the shop manual and see how to remove the column tube- easy to do - and just replace that , from there everything will be just an install. Something else to check is make sure your wheel has the 2 holes in it for the turn cancel pins. Contact Cole if you want to go that direction. Thanks D

Hi Doug....I appreciate the encouragement. I'll study this a little more and see if I can get a handle on the modification steps. I appreciate your suggestion to call Cole and see what parts you have available. Getting a pre-cut tube may give me a little more confidence in going forward.

When you say make sure your wheel has the two holes for the turn cancel pins, where exactly would those be? Are these in the back of the steering wheel hub? Thanks again! Gary

Just going through this process myself. My steering column already has a cut out in it. Car is a 52 Wasp . I can see no evidence of indicators having being installed previously.

Yes Gary, most st.wheels have the provision, just no pins installed.

This is probably of no help at all, but back about 1978 I adapted a StepDown turn signal -- I think it was from a '52 or '53 Wasp -- to work in my 1937 Terraplane. But of course there are no "pin holes" in the 1937 steering wheel hub. So, I cut a hole in the steering column jacket, and then installed a hose clamp around the steering shaft to act as a cancelling cam. Every time the shaft revolves the adjusting screw on the clamp comes around and hits the cancelling fingers on the switch. It's worked like a charm for the last 42 years. Of course, for someone with a StepDown, it would make sense to get hold of the original cancelling pins (or to make pins). But in a pinch, think "hose clamp"!

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Hey Jon...thanks for the information. I like innovative solutions!

[quote="Doug Wildrick" post=26570]Yes Gary, most st.wheels have the provision, just no pins installed.

Thanks again Doug. I always appreciate your insights. Things stalled a bit with my work on the car. I may still be contacting you to see what you have for parts.