The electric fuel pump should be installed as close to the gas tank as possible. With a filter plumbed in before the pump.
Double check your timing. Also sounds like the carbs are leaking down in that long time period.

Ditto for what Kerry said, I would add that the leak down problem maybe attributable to the needles on the fuel inlet seat, improper float settings.

I've been having the same problem with my 48. I am running all stock with no electric pump. I recently rebuilt the carburetor and the "needle and seat" provided was not a needle at all. It was a little cylinder with a rubber pad on the end which sealed against a flat brass seat. I think I'll put the old set up back in and try that again but I have also been thinking that the check valves in my fuel pump might be leaking, allowing the fuel to syphon back to the tank.

Make sure the choke is adjusted correctly.

If you want to see if this is leak down, plumb an outboard motor priming bulb and hose in place of rubber hose from hard line to FP. If by re-priming the carb you get instant start then leak-down is your problem, not timing or choke, etc

Many thanks to all who have responded to my query. Yesterday I took the opportunity to unhook the fuel line from the mechanical pump at the fuel filter before the carb. I had my wife turn over the engine with the key start for 10 seconds and my transparent bottle collected about 4 - 6 ounces of fuel real quick. Conclusion is that my pumps are working okay and delivering fuel. The float bowls must be dry so I'm working on installing an inline check valve at the entry to the carb. Hope this does it.
Dee

Dee, as Ed has recommended here, check the adjustment of the chokes. If everything was good, but steadily gotten worst,but runs fine when warmed up, it is unlikely the floats or actual carb.functioning is/are the problem. Choke thermostats do go bad. Anyone who has a Twin-H engine knows that this set-up is usually a cold natured beast and choke settings are critical. Leaving it set overnight with both air cleaners removed, you should be able to come out in the morning, depress the accelerator pedal about 1/4 throttle. Both chokes should be closed, and using your finger, you should feel a slight resistance to open each choke flap. You should also look to see where the index marks are on the choke thermostat housings. I believe the shop manual describes these settings. If both are closed, you should be able to just turn the key. The engine should start and run on its own without having to feather and/or touch the throttle. I hope this helps.

[quote="Ed Adler" post=24997]Make sure the choke is adjusted correctly.

Doug - We are having some cool weather here locally (45-75 degrees) so I took off the two air cleaners and tapped the throttle a little bit and immediately the two choke butterflies closed as they should. As for resistance to a finger push, it was moderate. I didn't try to start the car as I was pressed for time, and I don't really like to start a car unless I'm going to use it and get it fully warmed up. (P.S. Gas is now $4.19.9 per gallon) Tomorrow, I'll probably go to Cars & Coffee and see what happens with a cold start. Thanks for your comments.
Dee

Your reply was the "bell ringer" ! If the choke butterfly is not moving freely this is a problem. The air cleaner clamps are known to distort the carb throat and this will keep the choke butterfly from properly working. The single bbl carbs all suffer from this problem.

Good Luck