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Front Floor Pans

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(@51hhr)
Posts: 6
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(@sidevalve)
Posts: 45
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I looked at those and from what I understand there is some trimming to make them fit. Good price though


 
Posted : 14/06/2013 12:21 am
(@supa6guru)
Posts: 370
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Think you'll find that these are the same folks -

[b][u] http://c2cfabrication.com/ [/u][/b]

I am still waiting for them to make a 'transmission hump'...


 
Posted : 14/06/2013 1:00 am
(@dlm31)
Posts: 960
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These floor pans will definately need to be fit. They are not made to fit correctly. I bought a set and had to re-work them completely to make them fit. After contacting them,I got no help or satisfaction. They basically told me my car was wrong !


 
Posted : 14/06/2013 4:46 pm
(@51hhr)
Posts: 6
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Topic starter
 

Thanks for the link and some feedback to go with it. I wasn't sure if these were a company currently making them or perhaps a set that Amman had made a long time back.


 
Posted : 17/06/2013 5:19 am
(@46super6)
Posts: 237
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I BOUGHT THEM FOR MY 50 PACEMAKER PROJECT AND HAD TO FIT THEM UP IT TOOK SOME DOING BUT THEY DO FIT AFTER SOME WORK I'M NOW USEING A COMPLEET 4 SECTION FLOOR PAN FOR MY MARTZ ROIADSTER AND IT'S THE SME DEAL A LOT OF FAB WORK TO MAKE IT RIGHT BUT WHEN I'M DONE I WILL HAVE A NEW FLOOR IN THE CAR AND THAT IS WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR IN THE LONG RUN AS YOU CAN SEE WHEN FINNISHED THEY DO LOOK RIGHT


 
Posted : 20/06/2013 5:33 pm
(@albert)
Posts: 10
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I also bought a drivers side front floor pan from ebay for my '50 Pacemaker and it did take a little fabrication to replace. It was a very close fit though and I did not need to do too much work to get it to fit.


 
Posted : 23/06/2013 2:21 pm
(@dlm31)
Posts: 960
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I have found the ones for a step-down aren't too bad,but earlier cars need a bunch of fab work.


 
Posted : 23/06/2013 2:44 pm
(@35terraplane)
Posts: 700
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It was easier back in the day. Just go find a discarded washing machine or dryer and cut the side panels off it. Fit over the hole in the floor, smear a little roofing cement to seal it, drill a few holes and pop rivet in place. Worked great!! :woohoo:

Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN


 
Posted : 24/06/2013 2:15 pm
(@46super6)
Posts: 237
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LOL YEA ALEX I KNOW WHAT YOU MEEN ABOUT BACK IN THE DAY BUT YOU WERE JUST KEEPING SOME OLD RUSTY RAMBLER PASSING SAFETY INSPECTION WE ARE RESTORING A HUDSON,TERRAPLANE OR ESSEX TRYING TO MAKE IT LIKE IT WAS WHEN IT WAS NEW IT'S NOT LIKE KEEPING SOME JUNKER PATCHED TOGETHER WITH POP RIVITS AND TAR


 
Posted : 24/06/2013 3:18 pm
(@supa6guru)
Posts: 370
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[quote="PAUL SCHUSTER" post=2214]LOL YEA ALEX I KNOW WHAT YOU MEEN ABOUT BACK IN THE DAY BUT YOU WERE JUST KEEPING SOME OLD RUSTY RAMBLER PASSING SAFETY INSPECTION WE ARE RESTORING A HUDSON,TERRAPLANE OR ESSEX TRYING TO MAKE IT LIKE IT WAS WHEN IT WAS NEW IT'S NOT LIKE KEEPING SOME JUNKER PATCHED TOGETHER WITH POP RIVITS AND TAR
Any luck with the 'trans hump' floorpan Paul?


 
Posted : 26/06/2013 4:51 am
 Skag
(@skag)
Posts: 253
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Alex !!! You have been peekin' !!! That is exactly what I did with the floor pans on my 49 brougham project. The washer I used in the shop for rags died.. I used the side panels to fab the pans. they even had some reinforcement ridges to make them look authentic. I didn't use pop rivets though.. I used self drilling sheet metal screws. No it's not a restoration, but will be safe and fully functional.


 
Posted : 27/06/2013 10:31 am

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