Discussion moved to "Hudson" forum category.

This is all I did and is just fine. Only use it to prime the carb when the car has been unused for a week or more. It's a flow through type so no conflict with the mechanical pump.

another (looking straight up) Suggest clear filter between pump and tank. See when to change it. Inlet hose is looped. Note mount at tank: a pump likes to PUSH and not SUCK. Also DOUBLE clamps; double safe !!

Regarding safety and reliability, we each have to decide what level we want and will accept. For me, I never install an electric fuel pump in series upstream of the mechanical for the simple reason that if the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm fails with a tear, then turning the electric pump on will push gas directly into the crankcase.

Instead, I use the method developed by the Seagrave Fire Truck organization, which is to put the pump in parallel with the mechanical. That is to say, a T is put in the line somewhere between the tank and the mech pump. The line from this T goes into the electric pump then runs to another T at the output of the mechanical pump. Safety in ensured since there is a checkvalve within the mechanical fuel pump that will prevent fluid from entering on the outlet side.

I have photos of my installation, which i recall was very straightforward, with the pump mounted on the frame beneath the front passenger door. I'll post photos when I can find them.
Pat

Pat,

I would appreciate all the photos and instructions that you might be able to provide. I may want to set this up with another Hudson here in the future.

Tim, I'm still looking for my existing photos...can't find them yet. If car weren't in storage, I'd snap a few new ones.

There is considerable interest in this arrangement by myself and Fred Connors. Please post when you have the pictures.

Thank you.

Demetrios,

In my 1935 Hudson I installed a "T" fitting at the inlet to the carburetor. To this I ran tubing to the rear of the car, where it is attached to a 1980 Honda Accord electric fuel pump. A small 12 volt battery (the kind that comes in battery boosters) supplies 12 volts for the pump. The pump draws from a small container of fresh gas. When I have not used the car for a while, I run the pump long enough to fill the carburetor. Occasionally I charge the 12 volt battery.

Finally found the photos showing an example of the parallel (Seagrave Fire Apparatus) method of electric fuel pump plumbing.
The intent of such pump line routing is to be able to withstand a failure of the mechanical pump diaphragm. When routed as shown, the electric pump bypasses the mechanical pump and (a) can still get fuel to the carburetor, even if the diaphragm has torn and (b) will prevent fuel through the torn diaphragm and into the crankcase.

Pat

Awesome!
I see a project in my future.

Thank you.

-Chris

And what model of pressure regulator? Based on the pictures it appears you have a conveniently small one attached to the output of the pump.

Thank you.

Those small rotary pumps are available in both 6volt and 12 volt and in various preset pressure. No pressure regulator needed. Airtex is one maker, others look the same. The small can is an inline filter. Available at most parts stores, and on eBay. And they can be used along with the original type pump .

Yes, still 6V. Pump is an off the shelf item and included outlet fuel filter and brackets. I'll have to dig up PN. Purchased through CarQuest,
Pat

Ah, yes, there were several versions of the pump available. I specified one that had a 3 to 5 PSI output. However, what you see is a filter, not the regulator itself. Regulation is done internal to the pump housing.