Forum

switching manuel to...
 
Notifications
Clear all

switching manuel to auto tranny

10 Posts
5 Users
0 Reactions
217 Views
(@Arthur Stein)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I would like to replace the manuel trans in my 1952 wasp sedan with an automatic, is there any info I could obtain pertaining
to the do's and don'ts or if it is at all possible, any info would be appreciated, if it can be done my next request is , I would be interested in
purchasing a tranny in good working order if there is any available thank you. Art Stein adstein@earthlink.net


 
Posted : 01/04/2018 7:13 am
(@tallent-r)
Posts: 1825
Noble Member Registered
 

Discussion moved to the "Hudson" forum category


 
Posted : 01/04/2018 8:33 am
(@Lance Walker)
Posts: 0
 

I have done it. It will require welding and replacing of frame parts. Are you wanting to go that far? Also linkage and shifting parts will have to be switched out. I have transmissions but I would strongly advise that ANY transmission be rebuilt or gone through by someone knowledgeable on GM hydramatics. If you need to contact me re this send email to: hornetllw@yahoo.com.


 
Posted : 08/04/2018 5:24 am
(@dlm31)
Posts: 960
Noble Member Registered
 

Arthur, Where are you located?. As Lance has pointed out, everything is different. Even the steering column tube is different. When converting from a Stick to Hydro, you need to cut the stick cross-member out to enable the installation of the auto trans. This includes setting up the correct installed height and alignment of the hydramatic trans. It will require some fabricating skills, regardless of the direction you go. If you have a parts car, or the cut out parts needed to make the hydro cross-member unbolt-able like the factory. If your fabricating skills are good enough, you can cut and add the necessary mounting ears top section of the hydro cross-member to the existing cross-member, again requiring a complete understanding of how and what you are trying to accomplish. Modifying the existing cross-member to work would be the hardest way. It is easier to cut the ears on the outside box of each main frame member, but basically requires a parts car having those special pieces unique to a Hydro car. Leaving the solid member would require the engine and trans to be installed as an assembly and/or remove the floor pan if trans removal was required in the future. The floor pan is different as well, depending when your car was produced in '52 . It could possibly have the stick only floor pan, and will require a hydro floor pan, also unique to SWB only. The rear axle ratio will also be incorrect, and will need replaced. Best would be a 3:07 ratio Dana/Spicer, but the Hudson 3:58 ratio would also work. It has been our experience that all junior models with a factory Hydramatic in '52 had a 3:58 ratio Hudson rear axle. I don't know why that is, just been what we have found. I hope this helps


 
Posted : 08/04/2018 7:47 am
(@Arthur Stein)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

thank you for your response, I think I have to give this a lot more thought, the car is a complete restoration and I would hate to have
rip it apart to install a hydro, again thank you for the info Art Stein, California


 
Posted : 11/04/2018 8:40 am
(@dlm31)
Posts: 960
Noble Member Registered
 

Art, if you know what your doing, you are not necessarily ripping the car apart. It shouldn't make any difference if your car was brand new, and you were taking to a modern day dealership or a vintage age. A professional person is who you would want to take it too to start with! We have done numerous stick to hydro conversions, so it is very easy for me to describe this procedure.


 
Posted : 13/04/2018 2:02 am
(@Arthur Stein)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

thank you Doug; your input makes me want to attempt this conversion, but only with a pro,I will start looking for someone in the San Jose
area that would take on this job, one more question if you please, when I shift from reverse to 1rst gear the shift locks up and I have to
open the hood and manually push the first selector rod down to gain neutral back, would that be internal tranny problem or the select rods?
it happens numerous times in traffic. also enclosed is pics of the car thanks for your responses. Art


 
Posted : 13/04/2018 3:10 am
(@dlm31)
Posts: 960
Noble Member Registered
 

Art, it could be something as simply as needing lubed. If you look closely, there is an oil port at the bottom of the column, under the hood. You also need to make sure the rubber grommets in the shift levers are not worn out. Make sure all the jam nuts are tight, and in place. Once and if those all check out, then follow the Mechanical procedures manual, check and verify the rods are adjusted correctly. I think it shows using a special tool, but a drill bit seems to work fine. I think it is a .250 rod or drill bit required.


 
Posted : 13/04/2018 3:32 am
(@Arthur Stein)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

thank you again Doug; I will do everything you suggested, great info, again thanks Art. also did the pics come through?


 
Posted : 13/04/2018 3:40 am
(@jomoali)
Posts: 429
Reputable Member Registered
 

Arthur,

This was a very common problem with this type of transmission in many makes of cars, when the cars got a little old. Most of the time it was worn rubber grommets, as Doug mentioned.

Per


 
Posted : 12/05/2018 12:24 pm

Leave a reply

Author Name

Author Email

Title *

Maximum allowed file size is 10MB

 
Preview 0 Revisions Saved
Share: