You can buy toluene in CA, but you have to know what to look for. You don't need it though. Needs pressure on the crank, using the large bolt in front bottom pulley, but the truth is, you're likely going to find the clutch never operates well. You'll have to pull it and have it rebuilt soon after. Realize you need to be able to move vehicle around so need that free. Doug Wildrick can help you with the clutch.

Thank you for your reply and suggestion. Could you expand on your comment --using pressure on the crank using the large bolt in front bottom pulley? I would just like to be able to move the car from where it is under it's own power, and if I can drive it a little that would be great. I realize that the clutch will probably have to be rebuilt. Also, I'd appreciate it if you'll tell me what to ask for at an auto parts store in order to get Toulene. Do you think Toulene would be better to use than the combination acetone and ATF I'm using now? Thank you for the additional advice. Bob Gilzean

I would appreciate some opinions on the following question. would Xylene work as an acceptable alternative to Toulene in my attempt to free a stuck clutch? It's available locally.

From the very beginning you should have put a stick under the dash that held the clutch pedal depressed all the time while you were soaking and cleaning the clutch. By keeping it depressed with the solvent in it allows the corks to possibly swell without the pressure plate holding against them. Frequently pressing and releasing the pedal doesn’t usually work.

Robert, just to clarify: your transmission is currently in neutral?

Also: you are assuming the clutch is stuck because when you depress it, you are not able to shift into 1st, 2nd. 3rd or reverse...correct?

I ask this, because there could be one other reason...though it's a long shot. The pre-War transmissions (maybe the post-war ones as well) have an interlocking device consisting of two vertically-moving steel rods, one on each side of the transmissions. (My 1937 has these; I don't know if your '47 does as well). When the clutch pedal is depressed, a linkage from the clutch shaft moves both rods upwards. A notch on the side of each rod, moves up until it aligns with a ball detent within the transmission. Only when the ball (on each side) can move horizontally into the notch, is it possible to change gears.

If these rods are not in correct adjustment they move too far, or not far enough, and the balls don't align with the notches. Result: no shift. Chances are, this is NOT the cause of your problem but it's something that's fairly easily checked out from the underside of the car. (The adjustment is easy; it just consists of turning a nut on each of the two rods in order to move the shaft up or down; then there is a lock nut to keep it adjusted correctly.) Just for fun, you might want to check it out...if indeed your transmission has this feature.

No interlocks on this model.

Robert,

Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. The direction about keeping the clutch pedal down is important.

Toluene is methyl benzene. Xylene (there are 3 different but similar ones) are dimethyl benzene. So very similar. Xylene will have a higher boiling point. Toluene is 110 degrees Celsius, and Xylene is somewhere around 130-140 degress Celsius. Similar solvent properties.

Robert, have you checked to MAKE SURE the clutch linkage is adjusted correctly, or at least adjusted enough that it is actually depressing the throw-out bearing?. You can visually see this movement with the inspection cover removed from the bell-housing. This obviously takes 2 people, one to depress the clutch pedal, the other to visually look for movement in the t-bearing. Start the engine up, let it come to complete operating temperature. Once that is done, shut it off, put it in neutral, push it outside in a direction you won't crash into anything. Pull the shift lever into low gear, put your foot on the clutch pedal holding it down solid, start the engine, and as it starts to move the car, apply the gas pedal on and off erratically. This will usually make them pop loose. If that does NOT work, plan to take it apart. Where we are at, there is plenty of space to do this without running into anything, also allowing us to do this with no brakes. If you are in a confined or limited area, brakes would be highly recommended! If your car has no brakes yet, another future project, just turn off the key to stop. I have done this more times than I can count, usually with good results. We usually take it apart anyway. Good luck

Ed, Thank you for your reply and advice. I wasn't always doing that, but I will now. I've been using a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, but I'm considering a change to Xylene. I'll see how that works. Thanks, again.

Thank your for your suggestion regarding the rods. As soon as I can I'll get under the car and check to see of those are there, and if they are I'll follow your directions to see if they are adjusted properly. Thanks, again.

Doug, Thanks for your rely and advice. Fortunately, we have a 300 foot long driveway which should give me enough space to follow your directions. Your success with doing this inspires me to also do it as soon as I can. Thanks, again! Bob Gilzean.

Robert,

I'd like to know whether you succeeded!

Per

I haven't been able to get the clutch freed yet. I've received a lot of good advice, but due to family medical problems, I haven't been able to spend as much time working on it as will be needed. My next attempt will be to use Xylene as the solvent in the clutch while running the engine for a period of time, draining the Xylene, refilling it, running the engine a number of times. I'll see how that works. I'll be using Xylene in place of the Toulene, as the parts houses I've contacted tell me Toulene isn't available any longer in the U.S.
If you have any other suggestions I'd be happy to receive them.
Thanks for asking. Robert Gilzean

Robert,

I can't remember if I already have described a method which has worked well for me. Anyhow, here it is.

To do this, you need brakes. From what you said about wanting to drive the car around a little, I assume you have brakes.

1) Support the rear axle securely and remove both rear wheels. I prefer using boards of wood under the u-bolts at each end of the rear axle. Or use stands.

2) Put the car in 3rd gear.

3) Start the engine. The rear brake drums will be turning slowly as you do this, but it should start.

4) Gradually increase the speed of the engine until the speedometer shows about 30 miles per hour.

5) Push the clutch pedal all the way down and keep it down.

6) Apply the brakes SUDDENLY.

7) This should cause the rear axles, the driveshaft, the shaft inside the transmission, and the clutch disk to stop suddenly. If this is successful, the engine and the clutch pressure plate should slow down a bit, but not stop.

Let me know if you try it!

Per