Yes, they are adjustable, and set to .008"in and .010" ex, with the engine hot. Be careful that you use two spanners when loosening the locknut, don't just lean on the locknut as you can break the bottom off the lifter guide.
Geoff

Geoff, do you adjust them while the engine's running. I used to do that, though it was an adventure. And I think I adjusted to .010 / .012 as well, even when hot. The clickety-clack of excess "play" was the sound that reassured me I wasn't burning my valves through too-tight adjustment.

Hi
I am not sure how you could do them hot I started today the outer cylinders you can get to but the inner ones I think I may have to pull the inlet manifold of to get to them by the time you got it apart it would be cold again I actually found a few pages from the original hand book in the glove box and it says the tappets setting .006 and .008 and hot
I have cylinder 3 not running and it has no tappet clearance at all I will probably set all tappets to .010" and see how it goes a loose tappet does not cause to many problem but tight ones do
my car is coupe and you can not really see the tappets as the motor is lower than the mud guard it is going to be a tough job

Whenever I was younger and adjusted the valves on my '37 (a 212 six), I jacked up the right front axle, pulled the wheel off, and removed the inner fender. It was quite easy but took a few minutes. Then I would get in under the fender (there's room for a small family there!). Then ran the engine til its warmed up and removed the valve covers. Actually I would usually just run it with the valve covers off while doing the adjustments. It was a bit tricky with both wrenches jerking up and down, plus trying to get the feeler gauge in there to check clearance. The oil spattered around a little, but there isn't much oil in the valve chamber (part of the problem of stuck valves). I am by no means a mechanic, so I always felt a little bit virtuous after having done this. Now I'm older and just pay other people to adjust my valves, LOL!

Thank you I will have a look at that when I get to my factory today and see if it can be done that way I have been standing on my head using a mirror but My hands just don't go the right way when trying to see what I am doing in the mirror I tell my hand to go the opposite way in the mirror but they just wont the cylinders 1 8 and 2 7 are not to bad but the rest of them well I cant see them at all I think it is going to take a day just to set the tappets
I to am getting older but I would have trouble finding some one to do them for me the young mechanics ask where the diagnostic port is to plug in the laptop but it is really hard to get a 6 volt diagnostic tool and laptop LOL

If you can hear them they are too wide. Correct tappet clearance is essential for optimum running. It takes half an hour to do a tappet job, and the engine will not have cooled down to any degree that will affect clearances if the job is started with the engine thoroughly warmed up. Jon, I don't see any advantage in doing the job with the engine running, but plenty of reasons against, not least the damage to ones tools and fingers! the '34 models should not be too difficult. '38 onwards are a pin. It is easier if you remove the side plates from the inner guard to give access to the front tappets, after removing g the right front wheel.

Well thank you you will be surprised to know I spent about 2 hours to adjust just 3 cylinders working with a mirror then with your suggestion I pulled the front wheel of and lo and behold there is a inspection plate removed that and did the other 5 tappets in 20 minutes
Thanks again it is a simple job once you know how i also made a wire lead with a button switch so I can turn the starter over sitting under the the car watching the tappets
Thanks again for your inputs I would have pulled the inlet manifold of and wasted more time and effort
Regards Ray

Another way of turning the motor is to remove the spark plugs, tighten the fan belt real tight, and turn the motor using the fan blades. Much more accurate. You then see which tappets are up, and do the opposite numbers.
Geoff

the car is now quiet in the tappets I had 2 cylinders where the tappets were really tight it now runs on 8 cylinders and really smooth
I set the points at the same time so it starts first turn every time
I have a carby kit coming and will reco the carby and the distributor at the same same time the advance in the distributor seems very sticky
It is running pretty good now but with both the distributor and the carby done i am sure it will be even better again
I have started adjusting the brakes now I do a few mechainical brakes adjustments for club guys and found the best thing is a lazer temperture gun do a few hard stops measure the brake drum temperture and back of the hot drums and wind up the cold ones after about 5 or six goes they stop almost like a modern car it works really well
Thanks for the help and advice I am now looking forward to getting the 1929 going