Discussion moved to "Hudson" forum category

Local shop here had no problem aligning the fronts with their machine. It required pulling the fender skirts and rear wheel covers, but no problem there. I'm wondering if some of these shops are just assuming they can't do it, without really checking it out.

I've had the same problem. "We can't access the rear rims to mount the equipment".

Park: Do you know whether they had to suspend the car and let the rear axle drop a bit? I suggested that and the young manager told me that would mess everything up. I also suggested a doing just the fronts, but he again said his machine could not do it. From my actual experience, I know the rears are critical for modern cars with three axis adjustment, but for a rear drive car, the only issue is axle alignment to minimize 'dog tracking'. I know the machine can do it, but the technicians don't know how.

My home done job on Caster Camber and Toe result in a nice driving car, but I may have some unwanted tire wear going on.

Pat,
Thanks for your response. It gives me hope to hear that your home done job was successful. When you did it, what did you use under the front wheels to allow them to rotate easily? Did you have access to turntables or did you improvise something?
Hudsonly,
Ed

Ed,
No, I did not have access to bearing tables. Generally, I used the procedure as outlined in the Service Manual.

For Caster and Camber, I used a magnetic inclinometer (to measure degrees) purchased at Harbor Freight, it is the analog needle type. For caster, there is a set of machined bosses on the spindle that makes a great measuring point. For camber, I used the rim and brake drum.

Finally, for toe in, I again followed the procedure in section 12 of the Service Manual which calls for measurement from rim to rim as measured at hub height on the leading and trailing sides of the rim. This was an industry standard at the time but there were special tools as shown in the manual. I created a measurement tool out of a wooden rod, and attached a precision machinist's scale (ruler) in order to measure the rim to rim distances.

I hope this helps.
Pat

Another way I have used on toe in/out is: if your tires have a center groove, get a plumb knob, hold string in groove of front tires and make a mark on the floor where the knob point is {when it is still}; do same on back of tires.
Measure between front marks and then between back marks and you will know whether in or out and how much.
Should be close anyway ~~
I had to remove my steering wheel and realign after going to an alignment shop. Craziness~~ The guy wasn't over 70 so he didn't know. Look for older folks.

Pat, as I recall they didn't do that (dropping) at the rear, just had to remove the skirts and wheel covers..

Thanks to all for the input and ideas. I.m going to try the toe in measuring using the center point of the tires and a plumb bob.

For those who have found "old timers" to align their stepdowns, were any located in New England? Even though I'm going to do my best trying to do the alignment myself I'd still be more comfortable having a pro do it for me (if I can find one who's willing to try)

Hudsonly,
Ed

Finding the center point of tyres can be a bit hit and miss. For toe in you might consider something like the toe plates in the image or a solid straight edge. Just a thought.

For the turn tables, most people use a trashbag folded in half with wheel bearing grease between the layers. Or you could use 2 vinyl flooring tiles with a layer of grease between them to allow the tires to settle.

A way to make Richard's method more accurate is to use a piece of chalk to make a line on each tire: Jack up a tire. Spin it by hand, while holding the chalk against a smooth part of the tread. Do this with your hand resting on the ground. It helps to have a second person so one person spins the wheel, and the other person is ready to make the line. Do the same thing with the other tire. Then follow Richard's instructions. I have found that sometimes a treads centerline wiggles a sixteenth of an inch or so, which reduces the accuracy. That's why I prefer the chalk lines.

Also, an alignment shop should loosen both tie rods, when making an adjustment, so the position of the steering wheel remains straight. If only one is turned very much, it throws the steering wheel off, so that even if the toe-in is OK, the steering wheel is not straight, and the steering box is not at its most precise position, which introduces a little bit of unnecessary play in the steering.