To do the job correctly you have to remove the back window and the 2 windshields. If you just glue it on it will fall off and hang down. Do not mix the cross rods that hold the headliner up as they are different lengths. Glass shops will not guarantee not breaking the glass. What area are you located in, maybe some one in that area may be able to help you. Walt mordenti

Thanks, Walt. I am near Dayton OH.

I had expected to remove any and all garnish moldings and know well how the support rods function and the criticality of keeping them in order. Being forced to remove glass seems extreme, thanks for that warning. I'll be removing the moldings soon to look. I am more familiar with the means of the molding itself holding the headliner, perhaps with the paper composite tack strip.

Pat,
The sides of the headliner attach to an internal sheet metal piece that has long rows of barbed 'teeth'. This is the last thing you attach, after all the rest. Walt is right, to do it correctly you do need to remove front and rear windows. In my case, the attachment along the sides was the easiest part of all. Good Luck

Thanks, guys. I assume by "remove the windows" the implication is that the headliner is held by the rubber weatherstripping and not the garnish mouldings or another retaining feature as on other cars? Having done the job on non Hudson vintage cars, I am well aware of the need to install front to rear, which requires a very good means of attachment up front.

Can't wait to get into this project; it will transform the interior. Given the general good and origianl condition of the interior, other interior jobs include an attempt to regrain or find a replacement driver door upper metal trim since the leather graining is worn away, possibly paint the Durafab vinyl trim to bring it back from its faded teal color and finally, to decide whether or not to remove the vintage seat covers to reveal the original blue/tan striped seat upholstery. The covers were originally clear, but have taken on a tan tinted, opaque fade that renders the seats dull looking. Concern there is that I hope the seat fabric is not so weak that it will fall apart if the covers are not there.
Pat

When the factory installed the head liner the front and rear glass were not installed yet. They actually attach the head liner into the window opening with glue and small square shank nails through the metal. If you try just tucking it behind the rubber window seal it will just pull out when you are tucking the sides in to get it to fit properly.

Tom

I hate to say this but get a copy of the Hudson Body Manual. It has a perfect set of instructions for replacing headliners. I have done a bunch without removing the back window. ( why increase the chance of leaks or glass breakage? ). I use modern contact adhesive and fit it in.
That being said, the first few I did I removed the glass. I was able, through experience, to come up with my method. I'm just saying it can be done. The choice is yours which method you try. If it is your first. Use the book.

P.S. the body manual is available from Alex Burr's HET library

Thanks everyone. I hadn't seen the final two recent posts on this thread. [strike]Yup, I need the body manual[/strike]. Realized I had both the main manual and the supplement already. Didn't remember getting them.

Review of each repeats the proper step of rear window removal.
Further, it describes an installation process beginning at the rear window. Different from other cars I've done (albeit 30's and 40's non Hudsons), but not a big deal other than whether the numbering and associated color coding of the headliner bows is correct. I assume that although the installation of bows and headliner begins at the rear, the numbers associated with the color coded bows (image below) indicate that #1 is toward the front and #7 is toward the rear. While removing the bows, I labeled each then compared to the service manual color codes. My conclusion is the numbering is front to rear.

[u]New problem[/u]: two of the bows appear to be green (one dark, one light) and there appear to be two black. Number 5 was very difficult to remove. SO.....I am wondering whether the headliner was replaced at some time and incorrect bows were used and/or that the bows are out of order.

[u][b]Finally[/b][/u], looking through the body service manuals, I cannot determine what would have been the proper color for the headliner because I can't decode the model designations for a 1950 Bali Blue Commodore 6. I see the 1D, 2D...7D model designations, but not the 502 in the manual listing on pages 474-479.
Pat

Lewis, if you have any suggestions on how you accomplished the attachment WITHOUT rear window removal, please let me know.
PM

With out removing the front and rear windows don't every park it in the sun as that will pull it down in front and rear. That is why Hudson put tacks to hold it once the glass has been replaced. Walt.

Walt is correct if you use 1950's cement. Fortunately there has been improvements in headlining cement over the years. Use the modern adhesive.. that's what it's made for. If you've ever tried to replace a modern glued up headlining which has had the padding delaminate, you'll cuss how well it sticks. The one in my 54 has been doing fine for 20 years. It gets above 100 degrees during the summer here. I call that hot!

Modern upholstery cement is reposition able. Take a look at the method used inter jet section of the manual. It tells you how to do it without removing the glass. Just use the modern cement and tuck the headliner in the rubber.
Also, there is a tool called a "tucking tool" which is helpful here. It is pasically a stiff 1.75 inch putty knife watt all edges rounded so they won't damage the material. The blade is bent to an angle to faculatate installs. Also the blade house through the handle so you can tap on it. It is used for seat cover installs on modern cars as well as headliners and anywhere else you need to tuck material. Not an expensive tool, but if you rip your headlining with a screwdriver or a putty knife you'll wish you don't the couple buck. They still should be less than $20.00

Also. When tucking the headliner., it is best to leave some excess until you are all done then trim it up. The excess is used so lols over the tucking tool blade to aid in tucking as well as to give you something to pull on should you need to remove to adjust fit.
When all is done, heating and shrinking, take a new, sharp razor knife and carefully cut away the excess

Good luck

I belive my phone number is still in the roster or listed as the Essex6 Technical Advisor. If you need anything else, give me a call, leave a message and I'll call back

Lewis

Lewis,
Thanks so much for your responses here and to my IM's. You've returned my confidence to do this job. I have too have had very durable results with 3M Headliner adhesive, as well as its Super77 product, which I've used to reattach the jute backed roof insulation.

I've got the tucking tool on order as well. Can't wait to get started. Thanks also for your phone number!
Pat

You are very welcome. Did you get the body book? It is available on the clubs library as a download

Lew