Discussion moved to the "Hudson" forum category

don't we have any electric system experts here, please?

The car was designed to operate on the 6v positive ground electrical system and will start and run very well therewith. When changing it over to 8v positive or 12v negative ground you open up an all new bed of worms. Main thing is to be sure all connections are clean and tight. There are other items you could well use your money for in the saving of a 1952 Hornet that will lead to a happier ownership than worrying about the voltage of the electrical system

Ryan,

Not necessary to automatically upgrade to 12V. It really depends on what you'd like to do with the car, as well as what condition the car is in.

If you're just running around town, and going to car shows, short trips, etc., but don't plan any cross-country trips through big cities at night in the rain, then the 6 volt system will be fine. Like stated above, all wire connections, especially ground, must be clean and tight. Verify condition of those old wires, they could easily have been cobbled at some point. Make sure the battery cables are the 'larger' 6V gauge.

When I was getting my Hudson back on the road, that decision was pretty easy for me, since the original wiring was frayed, and I just didn't trust those old cloth covered wires. Plus, I wanted to make my car drivable in all traffic, weather and lighting conditions. I wanted A/C and a stereo, electric wipers, etc. which means 12V. A 6V system uses a generator, which doesn't charge much at all when the engine is idling. So, if you're stuck in a traffic jam for a while, you could end up with a dead battery.

As Doug says, the main thing is effective connections, I'd add to that statement with properly sized conductors. Many people will replace a 0 Gauge battery cable with a 2 or 4 gauge meant for 12v systems. Since 6v systems typically require twice the current as their 12v equivalents to deliver the same power, the cabling has to be larger (cost of cabling and power losses are the reason the industry switch to 12 volts and even considered going to 24 at the time). If a small battery cable, or headlight wire, etc. is installed instead of the proper size, the wire acts as a voltage drop, allowing only part of the power to get to the starter, lights, etc. Further, when the industry transitioned, there was already an increase in the power output of the generator, which also limits the 12v systems. The alternator was the key to larger electrical power
So, once you've proven that, 6v systems are very reliable and suitable. They've received a bad reputation either because the wiring is not correct, or there is an assumption you can power anything a modern car can.
Pat

Gentlemen, Very grateful for Your Knowledge.

I have four other classic cars (GM) and I don't drive any of them in the rain or at nite or more than short joy riding excursions. Thus, I believe with your information there is no reason to change from 6 volts to 12 volts (unless wire harness is bad). El Paso, Tx doesn't get much rain!

God Bless,
Ryan

PS. hope to take ownership of this 1952 Hornet later this summer

I have been fooling with Hudson, Essex & Terraplane cars all of my life - at least66 years now. I have a 1953 Super Jet I purchased in 1966 with just over 30,000 miles on it and have driven it to several International Meets over the years with no problems, and a 1954 Hornet Club Coupe purchased in 2010 with a few miles over 15,000 showing on the odometer. These cars are maintained by me and my Son, and have a maintained 6v positive ground electrical system just as they left the factory with. The Jet has just over 95,000 miles on it now, and the '54 Hornet just went past 27,000. I'm planning to drive the Hornet to Gatlinburg TN again this fall & as per usual do not expect any on the road problems. I have attached a pic of the '53 & '54.

i love your cars, Jerry

I think you'll discover that your 6-volt Hudson is quite adequate, even at night and in the rain. I've been driving my '37 at night and in the rain for 44 years with no ill effects. Just be sure that you have the adequate size of battery cable (thicker, for 6 volt), and that the body AND engine are grounded (2 ground straps), that the connections are all "bright and tight" and that you have a decent 6-volt battery (you have several choices including the Optima battery). The big difference between 6 and 12 is that 6 is less forgiving of flaws in the system, like too-small wires, or corrosion in the connections. By the way, as you may know, you can obtain quartz halogen headlight bulbs in 6 volts nowadays, for brighter lighting.

Mr. Battle, this is Very valuable information. Thank you.

What is the original battery tray/hold down set up on the stepdowns? My '54 has a 'frame' built into drivers side fender as mentioned above, however there is just a rusty tray floating on top with no hold down. Is the 'frame' the tray or should it has something more?

Your 6 Volt will be fine. I drove mine from Indy to St Louis with no issue at all. My wipers work well and I have driven at night a lot.so you have nothing to fear. If you do anything maybe upgrade to a 6V electric wiper motor. But with some rain X my vacuum wipers are fine .

Best yhing for 6 volts is to install a "Optima" spiral Cell battery. Expensive, but worth every cent. They put out 880 cold crank amps, and have trouble swinging the big 308 motors over.

My $.02. on keeping 6 Volt. Grew up with 6V Hudson and Fords. Don't remember problems other then cold weather cranking.
When I purchased my 46 Hudson in 2001, it cranked very slow and the head lights were dim.
What fixed the Cranking was New Cables and ground straps sourced from Dave Kostansek 440-293-4097 ( there are other sources as well). But i never found the correct gauge cables in popular auto parts store.
Headlights problem solved with Headlight relay kit, from the 1950's.These kits can still be found on Ebay under "Vintage Relay"/ Auto parts. This takes the headlight "load" off the Headlight/dimmer switch and wiring and places it on the Relay under the hood.