I wanted to share a success story putting this electric fuel pump in my '54 Jetliner.
I was having problems with vapor lock (heat vaporizing the gas in the fuel line/pump/carb). I had read that
modern gasoline has a lower boiling point than gas from the 50's and 60's, and so vapor lock is more likely to
happen these days, driving old cars with modern gas. Hudson mechanical fuel pumps get heated from
the block and exhaust header, and the carb gets toasty as well near the exhaust manifold. I found that my
copper fuel line also ran near the muffler and tail pipe before turning towards the gas tank.
SO. . . I went electric. After some research, I settled on the Carter P4259 6 Volt unit, as it uses rotary vanes, and works with NEGATIVE GROUND (or positive). They make this pump in 12V also.
The pump hangs from rubber vibration isolators, which also isolate the pump housing from the car chassis, so it's a simple matter of connecting + to the body, and - (hot wire) to the ignition circuit. I bought some heat shield tubing to shield the fuel line
from heat sources, and the next time I have the carb off, I will fabricate a heat shield plate that is larger than the stock one.
After today's install, I noticed the Jet starts easier !
From the technical specs; "Carter rotary vane universal electric fuel pumps were originally created for military use. This time-tested design has been in production longer than any other Carter model. Rotating vanes driven by a heavy-duty wet six volt motor deliver 5-3/4 PSI max pressure and a flow rate up to 72 GPH. This provides excellent lift and prime capability when the pump is mounted below the lowest point of the fuel tank at the rear of the car."
Oh yes, cost was $69 + tax, from my local auto parts guy, had to be ordered, 24 hrs later I had it.
Andrew,
Sometimes cases of vapor lock have been cured by installing a filter at the carburetor that has three pipes coming out of it: (1) input, (2) output to carburetor, and (3) to a return line. This provides a lot of flow through the fuel line, even when the car is idling when stuck in traffic. The return line doesn't have to be anything special, since there is almost no pressure in it. it can just be flexible fuel hose.
Per
I would suggest that you do away with the copper fuel line and remake it in steel. Copper will not hold up well, plus Hudson used steel fuel lines from the tank to the front cross member where it then went thru a rubber hose to the fuel pump.
If someone is going to replace the fuel or brake line, consider Cunifer. It is amazing. Standard on Porsche and Aston Martin and others.
Extremely easy to bend and double-flare. Cu= copper , Ni= nickel , Fe= iron
Don't get the thin Auto supply steel lines; can hardly single flare without splitting.
[url= https://www.cunifer.com/ ]https://www.cunifer.com/[/url]
I should have mentioned that the same day I put the rotary fuel pump in, I pulled out the copper line and put in a stainless
steel line 5/16 OD, thick wall, tough to bend, but I managed it. I routed it further away from the exhaust system to get away from the heat.
I didn't flare it, rather I cut with a die cutter, and used 5/16 flex fuel line with hose clamps. This allows
a bit of give at both ends for vibration control, especially at the fuel pump end, and also made it easy
to put an inline fuel filter between the gas tank and fuel pump.
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