Short answer for both questions, no. Splasher 6 uses an MZ series which is smaller/weaker than the 308 starter.
Splasher 6 or 8 generator is a 3 brush type . Later, 1950 and up used a 2 brush ,full voltage control. Specific numbers are listed in the
parts manuals available in Alex's online library.

Thanks . I see now that they aren't the same by specification.

Also, they bolt up differently, are a little higher on the bell-housing, and have a slightly shorter shaft, therefore they don't interchange. I've tried to mix and match good parts between early and late style, which did not work either.

Thanks Doug, now I know I have to search for the right ones, for sure.

My recollection is that the starter for the '50 Pacemaker 232 is the same as the earlier splasher sixes. If so (Doug will certainly confirm/counter). That's not to say you should go looking for one of those but it would slightly broaden the search.
F

No, starting in '48, the bell-housing got changed, and with that change, the location of the starter changed as well. The Pacemaker starter will work on any stick shift '48 -'54 BUT, it is only a low torque and probably will cause a slow and/or no start on H/P and higher compression Big 6 engines. If you look, there is actually an offset to the mounting end frame. This requires the end frame to be installed only one way for correct operation. You can install the end frame 180 degrees out, it will all go together, BUT it will not contact the ring gear. The computer I usually use is not very picture friendly, but we will be replacing it in the next few weeks. I will be able to post pix of the differences to explain by PIX! I hope this doesn't confuse anybody.

Thanks Fred, Doug and Frank for your good info. This is what I am doing: rebuilding a 308 that had an automatic behind it, planning to change to standard transmission from a 262 , using the back of the block plate and bell housing that came off the 262. My checking the parts , seems like I might have to drill one hole in the plate, and get the proper starter. Hopefully you can tell me if I can do this. Also planning on using the 10 inch clutch that came off the 262.
Getting in deeper all the time !!!
I have 2 automatics and one automatic starter...surplus.

Thank Fred and Dougie, but I threw you a curve. I have no recollection of where I came up with the 232 starter as being the same as an earlier 212 but I was wrong. I checked manuals today. That's the second time in the last 40 years I've screwed up, but I can't remember what the first one was. Lesssseeee. That would have been around 1977......
F

Too funny Frank !!!

[quote="Frank Hughes" post=19059]Thank Fred and Dougie, but I threw you a curve. I have no recollection of where I came up with the 232 starter as being the same as an earlier 212 but I was wrong. I checked manuals today. That's the second time in the last 40 years I've screwed up, but I can't remember what the first one was. Lesssseeee. That would have been around 1977......
F

Calvin, depending on what trans you are using will depend on the rear engine support plate. We have all the different types of rear support plates you might require. there is no reason to drill new holes, just install the corresponding correct rear support plate.

At least you were trying to help Frank, I appreciate that.
Doug I will try and contact you by phone some daysoon , might be easier. The 262 had a single lever transmission on it which is what I am planning on using, with that bell housing The hole I might have to drill is near the inside radius. Easy enough to do.
Thanks again

Doug,

Do 1948-52 8 cylinder starters work with 1948-54 6 cylinder engines?

Per

Yes Per. Some starters obviously have the solenoid mounted on the starter- '48 - '50 , subsequently there are holes in the case to screw them down, so if you were to take a starter from a '54 Hornet-same starter and Bendix, and try to put it on a '48 -8cyl. the holes are probably not going to be there for the solenoid, but otherwise it will bolt right on. Another reason to move the solenoid up by the battery, which started in '51 -. '49 was the last year for the voltage regulator on the firewall , changed in '50 to the drivers side fender well, but the solenoid was still mounted on the starter, but in '51 both the regulator and solenoid were mounted basically side by side on the fender well. Other major,- needed changes was the accelerator linkage. The last year of the bracket mounted on the back corner of the engine was '50. Starting in '51, the linkage was changed to a screw in post on a threaded boss at the back of the block. This is how I can tell if an engine is a narrow block, without looking at the cylinder head or casting numbers. Narrow blocks don't have these cast boss'. Another easy way to determine a narrow block from a wide block is the temp.sending unit is in the frt. of the head, and not the back corner, also narrow blocks don't have engine size numbers on the cyl. head.