Ed, this really looks good, BUT, if you really know what some of these descriptions are, they are B.S. First thing, they say the 749s, 968 s and the 2113s carbs all cross to the same number?. What, this can't be, the base for a 749S is a different size than the base for a 968S/ 2113S. Next, it states the idles are pre-set, not to low and not too high, well, all engines do not tune the same, attitudes, climate, and CID is different, so how can the idle really be pre-set?. These might be good carbs., but you don't know. It would also matter where they got their cores from. If the cores were beat up, stripped threads, hair-line cracks, did all that get fixed ,etc,.. again, you just don't know?. We use Daytona Parts co., rebuild kits, which have their own float valve design, which has proven to be very good, efficient and trouble free. You must always make sure the complete fuel system is restored. Doing carb rebuilds and a new fuel pump is only part of the fuel system. The fuel tank and lines should always be addressed , restored if required.

Doug, the 749S does use the same size base as the 968S and 2113S, casting number 340, so the all three use the same rebuilt kit from Daytona. You must be thinking of the 990S and 2114S which have the smaller base and are used on the Wasp & Super Wasps with the Twin H option. The 749S iron base stamped 682 has different passage and idle port sizes than the 968S & 2113S bases stamped 910, thus are not interchangeable, but use the same base gasket.
Hint: the 968S and 2113S will have the number 910 stamped into the bottom of the base flange, whereas the 749S will have 682 stamped in the base flange. Also the 968S was originally fitted with the metering rods 75-834 (STD), 75-861, 75-862 (1 & 2 steps lean), 2113S was fitted with metering rods 75-955 (STD), 75-974, 75-975 (1 & 2steps lean). 749 S was fitted with metering rods 75-704 (STD), 75-712, 75-713 (1 & 2 steps lean). I cannot find a reference to a base stamped number for the smaller 990S & 2114S carbs. It is left blank on the Carter reference sheets I have.
Ed, I suggest you go with Daytona, they still rebuild carburetors from what I understand, but do not re-plate the parts anymore.
https://daytonaparts.com/

Kenny, thanks for refining my post. That's what's so great about this forum! Your detailed description is great info. I just wanted to make sure that someone doesn't purchase something that won't really work and create problems when they are trying to correct problems or potential concerns. My point was if they are all the same, then Carter would have stated all these numbers are the same. Float levels, jets and metering rods - FLOW - is all applicable here. Mis-matched and/or incorrect application will only cause future headaches ! I want to make it clear I am not trying to dis Carbuerator ex., I'm sure they help people resolve concerns and problems all the time.
I hope you have a great Holiday season!

Doug may be too much of a gentleman to dis Carb-X, but [b]I'M[/b] not! 😉

I came across their site while researching carbs a few weeks ago, and my "B.S. Meter" went haywire. They make it sound like they can solve all your carb needs with the simple click of a mouse. When something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

So, I decided to Google search their company for reviews.

The reality seems to be that they are shoddy shop that is quick to take your money, and sell you a carb that leaks/malfunctions/catches fire, etc. Some customers have stated that they got their "rebuilt" carbs back in the same condition they sent them in as! I guess the owner doesn't have time to actually rebuild the carb, as he seems to always be badmouthing his customers on Yelp, etc.

If you're still not convinced, the company has an "F" rating from the Better Business Bureau!

https://www.bbb.org/losangelessiliconvalley/business-reviews/auto-repair-and-service/carburetor-exchange-in-south-el-monte-ca-13036203

https://www.yelp.com/biz/carburetor-exchange-el-monte

Wow, as Steve has pointed out- BEWARE ! It sounds like if there is ANY problems at all, it will be something you have done wrong.

That's why I always rebuilt my own carbs for years now. I have in fact rebuilt carbs for other HET'ers. I have rebuilt WA-1's, WDO's, & WGDs' from Carter. Then there's the Solex's from Citroens and VWs. I have rebuilt 6 Jikov 30/30 SSOP's for Tatra T603 owners. I have acquired a complete set of vintage Carter carburetor tools to properly do the Carter Carbs of the 30's,40's and 50's from a veteran mechanic in NY. Takes all the guesswork out of setting the metering rod eights, the unloader, the saxophone key anti-percolators, etc. Planning on getting a Sharper-Tek carburetor sonic cleaner, which does and outstanding job of cleaning the castings and passages without the need for harsh chemicals

that eat the plating or anodiizing off. Also want to get the Caswell zinc plating kit, and some dichromate to restore the silver and cadmium style finishes, as Daytona Carb no longer does this.

A few more pix of the Carter Carburetor tools:

Thanks to all for the input. I guess I'll forget about buying a carb from them and go the rebuild method. Now all I need is a pair of good cores as a starting point.
Thanks again,
Ed

Ed, contact Cole at info@wrphet.com We have some of them. You don't have any cores?. Thanks Doug