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Master Cylinder Removal - 1939 Hudson 112

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(@jairomedina)
Posts: 614
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At the moment the Master Cylinder & I are having a difference of opinion. I want to remove it and it wants to stay put!

I'm having problems trying to get a spanner on the nuts at the back of the cylinder as space is at a premium so now I'm thinking that all I can do is actually remove the whole assembly that has the brake & clutch pedal on it as well to get it out.

Before I do that has anyone wise words as to another way of trying to get the cylinder free at all?


 
Posted : 13/08/2016 4:44 am
(@Mike Sheridan)
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Paul - What did you finally do about your rear brake drum? How did you get it off? Did you find another one?


 
Posted : 13/08/2016 4:53 am
(@jairomedina)
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[quote="Mike Sheridan" post=17703]Paul - What did you finally do about your rear brake drum? How did you get it off? Did you find another one?
That one is still a work in progress Mike! I have tried all ways to get it off and decided that I needed a break (no pun intended) from it so moved my attention to the master cylinder.

Unfortunately other than your kind offer which I still have tucked away as my get out of jail free card I've not been able to source another drum over here in the UK.

This car is fighting me all the way 🙂


 
Posted : 13/08/2016 4:57 am
(@Mike Sheridan)
Posts: 0
 

At least two ways have been mentioned, I think in connection with your woes, but maybe someone else as this comes up all the time, that will work as long as you have a replacement drum.
1) Drill and tap as necessary for slightly larger bolts to the lug nut holes Use non- lug nut bolts in those holes to pull the drum using a drum puller.
2) Grind off the rivets which hold the drum to the hub. Punch them out into the interior of the brake area. Remove the drum. The hub can then be removed using a conventional puller.
If you didn't see these, I hope it gives you helpful ways to move forward on the drum.
On the master cylinder, I have ground down wrenches before to fit narrow spaces. Pretty much ruins the wrench for all but that special use.
Happy to help with parts I have as needed, as other people have helped me on recent projects.


 
Posted : 13/08/2016 5:14 am
(@jairomedina)
Posts: 614
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Thanks Mike ; as always I appreciate the advice and offer. I always find that as a club there is none better than this one for that sort of support.

I have considered grinding down a wrench to try and get it to fit into that space; I may well try that before I look to drop the pedal assembly.

My concern is that if I drop that out then I'll look and think that something else could do with coming up so I can spruce it up and before I know it I have the car in pieces with little hope of getting it back together!

What I am trying to do here is as little as I can (due to financial constraints) to get it driving again so I can enjoy it on the road but , at the moment, we seem to have differing opinions on that 🙂


 
Posted : 13/08/2016 5:29 am
 ok54
(@ok54)
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Paul

Have you tried using a crows foot wrench on the nuts? Don't forget to use plenty of
kroil or PB Blaster.


 
Posted : 13/08/2016 10:30 am
(@jairomedina)
Posts: 614
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I don't have a crows foot wrench Eddie but think I need to invest in one! I have really soaked all the nuts etc. and will have another go later on today


 
Posted : 13/08/2016 9:43 pm
 ok54
(@ok54)
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What does the Mechanical Procedure Manual say about removing it?


 
Posted : 14/08/2016 1:11 am
(@jairomedina)
Posts: 614
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[quote="Ed Adler" post=17727]What does the Mechanical Procedure Manual say about removing it?
We don't have 1939 copy in the library Ed but I looked at the ones we have and they all say "after you have removed the master cylinder" with no hints as to how that happens. I reckon the "old guys" were a lot better mechanics than me and didn't need the guidance!

I have ordered myself a set of Crows Foot spanners so I'll wait for those to turn up and in the meantime I can move my focus back onto the remaining rear wheel hub that doesn't want to come off


 
Posted : 14/08/2016 1:30 am
(@35terraplane)
Posts: 700
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I've noted, over the years, that shop manuals are not always the best in instructions. IMHO I think the factory felt that the mechanics should know the proper procedures so didn't need step-by-step directions. Hudson did have factory schools for mechanics tho I don't suppose Joe Blow in Munchkinville went to a factory school.

Hudsonly,
Alex B


 
Posted : 19/08/2016 7:30 am

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