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Removing a GMC Hydramatic from the 308

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(@Calvin Parsons)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Will the transmission slide out of the torque converter, or does the torque converter have to be unbolted from the flywheel/flexplate first.

I tried to slide it out without removing the bolts holding the torque converter from the flywheel, but it won't come off, don't want to wreck it.

Thanks


 
Posted : 25/05/2016 2:15 pm
(@m-patterson56)
Posts: 452
Reputable Member Registered
 

The torus must be drained, un-bolted and separated from the Flywheel in order to remove the trans. There is a 1/8th NPT plug on the torus cover for this purpose. You'll get a few quarts so be ready with an adequately large container. Use the same plug when you replace it or make sure a replacement plug isn't any longer than the original. The torus runs very close to the inside of the cover.
F


 
Posted : 25/05/2016 2:32 pm
(@Calvin Parsons)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Thanks, I was hoping that it didn't work that way, taking it off a used engine that is siezed. Oh well ,I'll figure it out. At least I now know what I have to do to not wreck anything. I am going to have to do this twice, 2 engines. I will have 2 hydramatics left over, as I am going to put it in as a standard.


 
Posted : 25/05/2016 2:38 pm
(@josh-1938)
Posts: 288
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Have you exhausted all attempts to free the motor?
Sometimes the valves are stuck in the guides and sometimes the pistons are seiezed. There are many therories on what works best but Kroil is at the top of the list. If you can remove the head would be best way to soak the components. Then an Impact socket on the Damper bolt sometimes frees the assembly by vibration. Good luck.


 
Posted : 28/05/2016 4:45 pm
(@m-patterson56)
Posts: 452
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Hmmmmm. That's bad news. It's nearly impossible to access all of the torus cover bolts if you can't turn the engine......actually, it is impossible. With the head off, you may be able to drive the seized pistons upward enough to get them all clear of the crank so you can turn it. You may need to drive the rod bolts out to get the rods past the throws without damaging the crank. IMO, Try to save as much of that engine as possible. I've heard it said that you can take a sledge hammer to the bell housing to gain access, but that's not my way of thinking.
F


 
Posted : 28/05/2016 4:54 pm
(@Calvin Parsons)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I am progressing on this project, all the valves are out and 4 pistons are out, the crankshaft is turning, just have to get out the last 2 pistons, then I can take the transmission off.
Thanks for all the info.


 
Posted : 29/05/2016 1:36 am
(@dlm31)
Posts: 960
Noble Member Registered
 

Frank, I have seen this done many times. Like you, it isn't the way I would do it. You, at some point, still have to free up the engine, or dismantle it to rebuild. Why not do it now, is my thinking.


 
Posted : 29/05/2016 3:56 am
(@m-patterson56)
Posts: 452
Reputable Member Registered
 

Dr.
Sadly, not everyone is as concerned about preserving the Hudson stuff, which is certainly not to say that Mr. Parsons is one of those people, but to some, it's just an old car. If you could see my place, you'd see that I save [i]everything[/i]!
I am glad to hear that the crank is now free so he can properly remove the trans.
F


 
Posted : 29/05/2016 6:14 am
(@m-patterson56)
Posts: 452
Reputable Member Registered
 

ps
I'm really glad to hear that it's not your way of doing things!
Frank


 
Posted : 29/05/2016 6:16 am
(@Calvin Parsons)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Update: hydramatic off engine, engine completely apart, nothing broken. Next: take the hydramatic off the other engine, should be easy, no pistons or rods, just the cam. Thanks for all the help. Actually whats next is bring this engine to the machine shop for rebuilding.


 
Posted : 31/05/2016 10:19 am

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