Discussion moved to "Hudson" forum category

Need to know what size bolts or studs you have. 7/16 are set at 65 foot lbs, 1/2 inch are set at 90 to 95 foot lbs. Paint the head gasket with a light coat of aluminum enamel paint. Make sure both the head and block is level. Walt.

To pile onto what Walt recommended.... check out in the club library (one of the tabs up top) and down load yourself a copy of the repair manual. Alex Burr has done a tremendous service to us by scanning in tons of technical bulletins and manuals. This will also have the torque sequence for your head and all.

-Ray

As far as being level. The engine is in the car and actually runs. We just know the gasket needs to be replaced. I really appreciate everyone's help.

William - These engines need the block surface and the head surface to be perfectly flat - Within .001". If they are not, then head gaskets will leak and blow continuously. Sometimes, the block is not flat because people in the past have tightened the head bolts above the correct torque value. This tends to pull the metal up around the threaded hole, ensuring that the problem will get worse and worse. You can try a new head gasket, and if you are lucky, that is all it will need. But, if it soon happens again, then the head needs to be milled flat, and the block needs to be milled flat. Of course, the engine needs to come out to do the block. If you get to that point, make sure that only the least possible metal is removed. You only get so much milling of the head before it is too thin and beyond saving.

First let me say thanks for the info. I'm hoping that I don't need to take out the engine. I recently purchased an aluminum head at the Charlotte Auto Fair. I know that I need to have it surfaced. What are your thoughts about going with the aluminum?

Well, my opinion, and I hope other people with direct experience will give theirs, is to recommend you not try to use the aluminum head. They are the most troublesome of all. they are referred to as "wallhangers" other places on this site or maybe the Facebook sites. Very hard to make work. Tend to have dissimiliar corrosion problems, so that even if you get it to seal at first, it will soon be leaking. The best you can have is a flat block and a flat cast iron head as close to two inches thick as you can find.

William, ok, I'm not trying to start an "aluminum" head war, but some Hudson owners have had very good success
using them by following the rules. First and foremost, the head must be in spec. After planing, it should have a minimum thickness
of 1.94". Good luck finding a used one that will be in spec! Have the machine shop check yours and see, if its not, polish it and hang it on the wall! I have not measured a used one that actually was in spec.
Now, if you have one in spec, as Mike suggested, make sure the block surface is flat as well. if so --
use Best Gasket brand of head gasket and use copper coat head gasket spray. Torque when installing head and re-torque the next day and again after the engine has run and went thru a heat cycle.
Use only distilled water, not creek water like my dad used to do! Distilled water has no minerals that can increase corrosion issues.
If the engine were out, I'd suggest re'drilling out for 1/2" bolts or studs if it has the 7/16" bolts now. I do that even for iron heads. Use hardened washers under the bolt heads.

[quote="Kerry Dancy" post=16444]William, ok, I'm not trying to start an "aluminum" head war, but some Hudson owners have had very good success
using them by following the rules. First and foremost, the head must be in spec. After planing, it should have a minimum thickness
of 1.94". Good luck finding a used one that will be in spec! Have the machine shop check yours and see, if its not, polish it and hang it on the wall! I have not measured a used one that actually was in spec.
Now, if you have one in spec, as Mike suggested, make sure the block surface is flat as well. if so --
use Best Gasket brand of head gasket and use copper coat head gasket spray. Torque when installing head and re-torque the next day and again after the engine has run and went thru a heat cycle.
Use only distilled water, not creek water like my dad used to do! Distilled water has no minerals that can increase corrosion issues.
If the engine were out, I'd suggest re'drilling out for 1/2" bolts or studs if it has the 7/16" bolts now. I do that even for iron heads. Use hardened washers under the bolt heads.

Let me say this about drilling a Hudson block to take 1/2" bolts or studs (I'd go with studs myself.) I've done a couple of these jobs in the past and I'd never do another!!!!!!!!!! Then Hudson blocks are hard chrome alloy. A lot of machine shops, if the operator is old enough or knows about Hudson blocks, won't let you in their shop. I went thru 4 bits on one engine and 3 on the other - and these were special bits just for a job like this - at $75 a drill bit (this was back in the 70's.)
Just my opinion.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

Thanks to everyone for their input. Very well received. Now to convince my wife why an aluminum head is hanging on the wall, LOL.

So you're saying buy jugs of water when replacing the water in the system? How much does it take?

Alex,
Where do I find the repair manual to download? Someone said that you put it in the library. I can't find anything. Thanks.

Sorry... that was me... Library tab ----> Online literature ---> Literature 1948-1954 -- -> Manuals 1948-1954 . Than pick which you need and download a pdf. 🙂

-Ray

Which one would show me the specs on torquing the head. I looked in several. My car is 52 Hornet.