FYI
I would pull the Drums (Need a special Puller) then pull the axles & replace the outer Seals since they probably dried up and also replace the Pinion Seal (behind the Yoke). If the gears revolve smoothly without noise and the gasket shows no sign of leakage there is no real need to remove the Carrier. However, with the Rear and Axles out its far easier to remove the Carrier to rinse the old lube then re install with a new gasket. Lastly replace the Wheel Cyl's (not rebuild them), Install new Lining, Return Spring Kit, and Shocks.. I would refill either with 80- 90 or 90 140.depending on noticable wear. Sometimes you can spray the Emerg Cables with Pentrant let soak to free up.

Ray, as Chuck recommended, spray the e-brake cables, making sure they work very freely. If they don't,the e-brake will stick on, and be a future problem. Both rear drums need to be removed, both wh.cyl's need replaced, at least both outer axle seals, which are located in the bolt on flanges. While the rear axle retainers are removed to replace the seals, remove both rear axles, clean and inspect the axle bearings, then repack them, and if you chose, remove the 10 nuts holding the hogshead in the housing and remove it. Replace the gasket. Make sure you scrape all the old gasket from the housing and the hogshead, install the new gasket. We recommend using ultra silicone on both sides of the gasket when putting the hogshead back in. I would also recommend replacing both the front rubber bushings and both the insulators from the springs to the axle. You should also consider re-installing each of the springs separately back on the car, then the axle housing with only the hogshead in it. Make sure you replace all 3 rubber brake hoses. Also while the brakes are apart, make sure to clean the brass junction block attached to the rear end. Mail us at info@wrphet.com if we can help with all your parts, or visit our website at www.wrphet.com

When you get to the point of wheel bearing removal/inspection, keep the cones and cups together ( I always mark the right ones) since they
"mate" as they wear and should be re-installed as a mated pair. Also note that the Hudson built rear axles have a very rare tapered roller bearing which may [i]look[/i] common but it has a tapered [i]bore[/i] as well. Keep the shim packs together and marked for location.
If you have a Mechanical Procedure Manual that covers the HMC axles (not the Spicer rears used in later Hudsons), read the instructions on re-installation of those bearings......do not use a press to do so! Be careful with those 25877-[i][b]T[/b][/i] bearings as they are quite difficult (read "expensive") to come by. Re-assembly/set-up of that rear end is quite different from most units, so follow the MPM closely.
F

You actually have a decent ratio rear end. It's the only year Hudson produced the 3:58. next year they went with Dana/Spicer.That rear end ratio was for hydramatics but works well on 3 speed and 3 speed with OD. Follow the advice already given and you should have no trouble.

If it weren't for bad luck... I'd have none at all.

Here is a grenaded 25877t

The other side looks pretty good. I believe the inner oil seals are original to the car. The look a little leaky. The outers were toast.

So does anyone have a 25877t or two that they scored a few years ago when Paul was blowing them out for $30 and wants to make a profit? Or even a serviceable used bearing wouldn't be bad either. HETray.krause@gmail.com drop the HET 🙂

So I obviously need a bearing... should I replace the inner seal? Doug said probably not but is a little leak (the stain) an ok-ish thing?

Thank you all... without this site I wouldn't be as far as I am today.

-Ray

"Thank you all... without this site I wouldn't be as far as I am today."

Neither would most of us, Ray.

Ray I have some very decent used 25877T bearings and I have some NOS inner seals.