Well.... the rear end is out of the car....

Any way to check when its out?

Raymond, those springs are about 65 years old. My 52 Hornet rear spring were sagging with less than 82,000 miles when I bought it. I liked the look but it would bottom out easily. When I removed them at 53,,000 miles the left rear spring had 5 out of 8 broken leaves. You can see how low it set in aviator picture. I would recommend contacting Russ Maas to buy new rear springs that he sells. You will not have to worry about old springs. Might consider buying new shackle's & bushings, and track bar bushings from Russ at the same time. Since you already have it apart, might as well make it like new.
Lee O'Dell

Hey Lee,

Make it like new is pretty much my intention with everything on the car. I'm just going to replace them... will have to wait a little longer, but there is no shortage of things to do!

There should be another post in about an hour... 🙂

-Ray

Also put Monroe MA727 air shocks on the rear; put your level wherever you want it.

Richard,

I was reading about your experience with them on the other forums. Definitely going to look into them.

Thanks

Ray

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-MA727-Max-Air-Shock-Absorber/dp/B000C57S12/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=F-150%7C666&Year=1997%7C1997&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive

Ray, Lee O'dell's car probably has "open" rear leaf springs, which sagging is very common, but it looks like your springs are the encapsulated type. These were packed with cosmoline or something like that. These springs definitely hold up much better than the open type. I would hesitate replacing them, as you won't get the same smooth ride the O/E. springs have. Of course you probably have no way to determine how this car was used, or what kind of load it carried, but unless it has a trailer hitch on it, and no noticeable rust bleeding from where the covers are wrapped on them, they are probably just fine. If you want a little stiffer ride , install a heavier shock or possibly a load leveler shock. Again, it probably isn't required. The frt. coil springs are usually setting too low and need replaced. Make sure you get a good set. Some of the ones out there are way too stiff and make the frt. end sit way too high.

Doug, my springs were the wrapped type. The wrapping was a challenge removing to see how bad the leaves really were. Each of the five broken leaves had at least two major brakes and around each brake were many many smaller broken pieces. I suppose another indicator of worn spring like mine is that each end of the leaves no longer had nice radius ends and the ends were razor sharp with irregular shaped ends. Only the main and second leaf ends are visible.

Raymond, at the time I didn't have the money for new springs but I had a 54 Hudson parts car with rear springs I hoped would be good enough. They did not raised the rear of my car as much as I hoped but did raise rear one inch at center of wheel but not as high as your car sets.. I just went out to measure height to compare with your photo and your car sets 1/4 inch higher than mine at the same measurement location as your car. Is your measurement with car stripped down? That my account for the difference between our cars ride height. If you chose to reuse your springs, clean and look very carefully at the spring leaves in the middle where they are not covered, for any stress cracks. That area near the wrapping and a short distance under wrapping is where most of my brakes were located as well as at centering bolt hole. "Hudson also recommends rear springs with metal covers be lubricated every 10,000 miles. Lubricate through hole in cover using viscous chassis lubricant, use special tool for that purpose." My springs obviously were not lubed as recommended. I don't know where one would find the special tool or where the lube hole might me. Something else to look for.

Maybe someone who has installed new springs can give you a ride comparison and body height comparison.
Lee O'Dell

Hey Lee...

Motor, trans, gas tank, front fenders, grill, and hood are off the car. I just pulled one side... probably pull the other side in the next hour or two. Hopefully have a better idea about the springs condition then.

-Ray

Thanks Doug!

They are wrapped. They do have some mud packed in under the covers in places... hit it it with a mallet a few times and some mud and flake rust came out. Hope to have more info before night fall. I hope I don't need new springs...

-Ray

Raymond
There is some kind of material layered between spring and metal covering, maybe to help retain lubricant. I did see two holes on metal covering of my springs, may be more holes under the crud.

Walt may have information about spring lubrication tool.
Lee O'Dell

Well....

I saw money evaporate. I pulled the springs from the U bolts. Everything looked great. Then I pulled the spring insulators off. And there it was. The ONE cracked leaf.

So now what? New springs? Hope someone has a good single spring that kinda match mine. I called Eaton and these are NOT cheap... I dunno what Randy charges Any insight?

Thanks again

-Ray.

If I remember right, 21st Century's set costs in the neighborhood of $400. Maybe Lee has one good leaf you could use?

Ray
The price of the springs Russ mentioned is about right. With shipping to Burbank, Ca. 21st Century quoted me $475 for both springs and shippinjg. I don't recall exact price of springs.

If the metal wrapping was not around the bottom leaf of the spring I have I would give it to you. But with hammer & chisel to get wrapping off to remove the bottom leaf how about $15 + shipping if you want it. The p/n is 302 763 and the other number is 19 0 E.
Lee O'Dell

edit. When I retired my son bought all my tools but left me with a few hand tools to play with. LOL