;I have owned a 53 Super Jet since last September, a car that belonged to my deceased uncle. The car starts hard, requiring a lot of cranking to fire up. After the initial start it restarts pretty easily. The car sat for 2 or 3 years without running due to my uncle's illness. I have drained and refilled the fuel tank, new plugs, wires and cap, and checked the timing (spot on). The car has an electric fuel pump installed with a push button under the dash for initial priming. The chokes on both carbs are operating properly (closed when engine is cold and fully open when at normal operating temp). Once running and warmed up the engine runs very well, it is just the hard starting that is challenging me. Thoughts? Kevin
A few random thoughts:
Is the battery good, are the cables the correct ones for 6-volts, and are all the connections clean and bright?
Have you checked the points for corrosion and gap?
You might try a new condenser. They often go bad and you should probably carry spares around with you anyway.
Have you checked or even replaced the fuel filter? If there was crud in the tank it might have clogged the filter.
Kevin have you tried adjusting the choke so they are not closed all the way. My Hornet starts easier with chokes not closed all the way. In fact I have even tried leaving the front choke wide open and rear choke partially partially open and it easily started right up. However, I live in Southern California. I did have a hard start problem with chokes closed all the way.
Lee O'Dell
Kevin, how well does it run while driving it? If you've checked the fuel and electrical system you might look at adjusting the valves.
Setting that long, I'd wonder about the condition of the carbs if ethanol gas was used.
You mentioned that you have an electric fuel pump. Prior to cranking, are you running that pump until the sound changes, indicating both carbs are full? If not, try that.
Kevin,
It seems that coils work best when the "-" terminal goes to the distributor, and the "+" terminal goes to the ignition switch. This is true for both negative ground and positive ground cars. It has to do with the way the windings in the coil are connected.
What I have read is that if the coil is connected the wrong way, the car will run well, but it may be hard starting.
I have not had this problem myself. Does anyone else have experience with this?
Per
I did check it. It still has the glass filter housing with that "stone" in it and fuel is flowing ok.
New battery, cables and connections are good. I will double check the points and clean them up and check gap. Good suggestion on the condenser. Filter is OK. thanks for the suggestions
I have not tried adjusting the chokes, I will give it a try. Have not heard of leaving one wide open.
Runs well after it warms up. Seems to have good power, no valve noise. I do have some water pump noise and will likely have to replace that. I have the same concern about the ethanol fuel but since it runs and idles well after it starts I have not taken the carbs apart. I did check the filters at the carbs to make sure they were clear.
I do run it for quite a while, in fact I was wondering if I might actually be flooding it. WHen trying to start it the other day it let out a might backfire that I am sure made some neighbors jump! I am trying to find that fine line between giving it enough fuel and too much fuel. Once I find the starting formula for this car it should be fine.
Not heard this theory...I will check and see how the wires are currently routed.
Per, the GM tech training material says you lose about 15% of the spark voltage when the coil is connected with polarity reversed. If the system is pretty well up to snuff that 15% isn't going to be a problem, but when something in the system is marginal, the polarity can be a big factor in how it runs. But usually it shows up in performance under load, not in starting.
Kevin, It really sounds like the valves are stuck and/or sticking . This is why it would seem to run Ok, but once it is turned off, letting the engine cool, lets the valves stay stuck open, not in sequence and when it hits that cylinder, it ignites the exhaust and or intake. Backfire through the exhaust or intake is a common occurrence. If you have not cleaned the gas tank out, then plan on doing so. A big misconception of old cars is putting another fuel filter on it fixes the problem. This is not the case. Rotten, bad and stale gas will only continue to cause problems, and the fuel filter/sediment bowl DOES NOT resolve the problem. If your fuel looks to be cloudy in the sediment bowl, it is bad. Yes, it will burn and combust, BUT will stick every valve until it won't run anymore, just depends on how bad it is. I hope this helps.
[quote="Kevin Lemire" post=15169]I do run it for quite a while, in fact I was wondering if I might actually be flooding it. WHen trying to start it the other day it let out a might backfire that I am sure made some neighbors jump! I am trying to find that fine line between giving it enough fuel and too much fuel. Once I find the starting formula for this car it should be fine.
Kevin,
You mentioned in your first message that the timing is correct. It would be worth retarding it slightly, to see if there is any effect on starting. If your timing is a little bit advanced, starting may be hard, but the running OK.
What method did you use to set the timing?
Per
