Hi, hewre is a photo of the filter on my '50 Pacemaker 232 if it is of any help.

Here's my 1950 Pacemaker; same as Alistair's car

I found that Kubota Orange is an almost perfect match. Look for it at a farm store or Kubota dealership near you. The Fram decals are available from Doug Wildrick.

Wildrick Rubber parts also has the decal kit for these. We also have many other decals.

Thanks, guys! As always, Hudsonites to the rescue!!!

Regarding the restrictor question, there is a special 90 degree, 1/8 NPT X 3/16 inverted flare fitting at the canister inlet (halfway up the side) that has a .109" (7/64) orifice in the flare nut hole. I can't say for certain that all of them used this fitting but I think it's supposed to be there. I have some that have it and some that don't. I suspect that over time, the special ones get replaced with the ordinary ones. An ordinary fitting of that configuration has a significantly larger orifice at that point.
The oil supply port for the bypass type filter is blocked off by the pressure regulator plunger (the device that Hudson erroneously calls a "check valve")until sufficient oil pressure is achieved to push it off of its seat and effect regulation. When oil pressure comes up to spec, plunger travel uncovers the port that directs a small portion of the oil flow to the filter, that's why you see it located directly above the regulator boss. The line from the canister bottom center simply dumps the oil back into the reservoir. The fittings at that point are unimportant since the restrictor orifice is on the inlet side.
The intent of that feature is to disallow oil flow through the filter at oil volume levels below that which is needed to achieve design oil pressure, such as at idle or low speed/high temps. You need all the flow you can get under those conditions so you don't want to sacrifice any by bleeding any off through the filter.
Probably more than you wanted to know.

Thanks, Frank. I know that on Studebakers the restrictor helped keep oil pressure up at all times. These cars also had the return line go to a fitting at the base of the oil fill tube. What about Hudson, where does it dump into? (My block is at the machine shop so I can't look at it).

Bruce,
There is an 1/8 NPT hole just below the regulator. It intersects the regulator exhaust hole so oil is returned to the same vertical hole that the regulator exhausts through.
I can't make myself fire up a fresh engine without having a full-flow oil filtration system in place. Break-in is the nastiest period in terms of metallic contaminants in the oil. I want them removed BEFORE they recirculate with the oil. Changing break-in oil after a few hundred miles is a few hundred miles too late, in Frank's opinion. The bypass type is better than nothing, but it allows recirculation of most of the contaminated oil for quite some time before the oil just happens to make it to the filter. But...it has been the best we could do for a long time.
Good luck
Frank

Bruce,
Although it's an old subject now, I have determined that my earlier "take" on the method of flow restriction in the bypass type filter was incorrect. The inlet/outlet fittings are not the restrictive element in the system. I have inspected several canisters, including one for Chrysler, and they all have a .0625 dia hole in the center discharge tube that is the sole passage for oil leaving the assembly. So, unless someone has used a fitting with an orifice even smaller than that (not likely), that hole [i]is[/i] the "built-in" restrictor.
Frank

If you plumb it into the correct places, the oil that is bypassed by the pressure regulator spring will be filtered and will have no effect on the pressure in the engine. Sorry I don't have a picture to show you, but I'm sure someone can snap one.

Hello currently rebuilding a 308. Can you tell me where you mount and plumb your filter for the break in period? I agree that you can't filter oil enough during your break in. Alot of money spent to let that much attention to detail pass by. Thanks

The oil filter has NOTHING to do with oil pressure. The spring that holds the oil plunger closed is what creates oil pressure. Hudson sold 3 springs, red, black and silver to use for the pressure you wanted. When pressure is reached, plunger opens and oil is directed back to the crankcase with no filter, or through the filter. Only about one third is filtered because of the small hole in the center pipe and two thirds goes directly back to the crankcase. Oil get dirty in less than 1,000 miles. That is why I made my oil filter set up, all oil going to the filter is filtered. Walt.