How critical is the impeller height inside the housing of a '50 narrow block 262 water pump. The manual says the impeller should protrude .007 to .017 above the housing and the new(rebuilt) pump I received yesterday has the impeller below the level of the housing by .052. Terry
With the impeller that low you will have heating problems. Hudson set the impeller so that it was 3 to 6 thousands of an inch clearing the back plate. 48 to 56 all 6 cylinder engines are set the same. Walt.
Does that spec. work for the 48-52 254 also?
Yes, the same applies to the 8 cylinder water pump. Walt.
Thanks Walt. I 'll be returning the pump unless someone knows a way to pull the impeller up a little with basic pullers. Terry
No way can you pull the impeller back out. Don't try it as you will not be able to return it. Make sure you tell them the Hudson factory setting like I told you. They will try to talk you out of it. Walt.
Hi there.
An interesting discussion. I am having heating problems in my 38 Terraplane coupe.
I have put a new Radiator core in and even a NOS head but still heating problem. Does the same apply, would the impeller height affect the water circulation and does anyone know the height it should be. I have also cleaned out any rubbish in the block. I am a bit of a loss as to cause.
Thanks.
Trevor.
you need the repair manual and yes the impeller must be set to a clearance. I sold all my manuals for Hudsons of the thirties, 30's, and the 40's recommend .010 to .014 clearance. Walt.
Trevor,
I have seen a couple of cases of overheating caused by the lower hose having been replaced with a flexible hose that collapses when the engine runs at medium to high rpms. This stops the flow of coolant and the car overheats. At idling, there is not enough suction to collapse the hose, so everything looks normal unless the engine is speeded up.
Per
Hi There.
I have done everything. New Water pump, NOS Head, Timing, recored radiator, cleaned out block etc. etc. it has got me puzzled.
Trevor
And also obviously new hoses.
Perhaps I have it so clean it is going through the system too fast.
Trevor
Be sure to check your timing again. Take an infrared heat check gun and see how the readings are against what your guage is reading.
Was the block cleaned out?
Trevor
What exactly is your heating problem?
Gauge reading too high?
Antifreeze boiling out?
You could have a bad gauge, or sending unit. Maybe a blown head gasket.
Trevor,
I notice that you haven't mentioned the thermostat. Your symptoms could indicate problems with those components/procedures that you have mentioned, but the t-stat is a glaring omission from the list. ?
F
Something else that usually gets overlooked. The heat riser. If it is in the closed position, set there or just frozen there, it will cause the engine to overheat! This is because it is trying to force spent exhaust around the intake manifold chamber, which is usually carboned shut because the heat riser has been closed forever. It also makes the paint and anything else around the intake manifold blister the paint off. It also makes the oil get dirty much faster. The overheating situation takes a little longer, especially if you are cruising at hwy.speeds or faster speeds and/or RPM's. This is also very hard on the valves and head gasket. We are working on Josh Keller's car right now, and the heat riser has been frozen shut for a long time causing a real performance stopper. Just something to check,hope this helps.
