Take a look here Rob , it might give you a hint?

[url= http://www.hetclub.org/forum/discussion/167348/heater-box-removal-1947-pickup ]Heater Box removal[/url]

Thank you Paul, I'll have a look.

Rob

are you working on your 52 remove the hoses and there are 4 screws to remove the heater box the core has some glue like stuff you may have to use a flat screwdriver to pry it loose thats how I did mine

Thank you Charlie.

I'm looking to access the motor, or motor area to determine if I want to install a voltage reducer or just replace the 6 volt blower with a 12 volt version.

Rob

I have an extra heater if you need one

I am running my 6 volt motor on 12 volt with out a resistor i read on the Hudson site it will work ok

Charlie and Steve,

Thank you.

The one I have is working fine, I don't think I need a new one, unless I need to replace the blower motor.
I am currently running the 6 volt motor on 12 volts and it spins well, the problem is the switch gets way too hot.
I have fears of all the wiring behind the dash catching fire!
Could just be that the switch contacts are dirty, or the extra voltage is just too much, heat wise to safely handle.
Are there replacement switches that will solve this issue?

Rob

Walt might know, as he converted his '53 to 12 volts and travels cross country with it.

I installed a 12 to 6 reducer on the power wire, feeding to the heater switch. Motor is original 6 volts. 12 volts spins the motor too fast and if run a long time will burn out the field coils. I got the reducer from a Ford dealer as back then they had them in stock for 55 and 56 Fords with 6 volt gauges and fords went to 12 volts in 1955. Walt.

Thank you Walt,

I have the reducer, and will be installing it inline, before the switch, but as others have done, believe the best mounting location would be in the heater box, in or near the airflow. Since it will only get hot when I actually need /call for heat, it makes sense to use the airflow to keep the reducer cool and take advantage of the extra heat source.
I've looked in the manuals, but have yet to find a section on removing the motor, or accessing the motor/squirrel cage, to determine how big a job it is to get in there to install the reducer.

Rob

The heater housing is held to the body section by 4 screws at the 4 corners. Do not remove the 2 screws in the center as they hold the heater core to the body section. Your RANCO valve should have a heat coil going to the inside of the heater box and into the heater core. Remove very carefully. At the bottom going into the firewall is a drain hose, remove. Drop housing and motor is easy to remove. I put my reducer screwed to the outside on drivers side and it is in the air flow coming out. Walt.

Walt,

That is just the info I was looking for.

Thank you!

Rob

Might want to think about doing this when you pull housing off.

Rob, I sure hope I sent you this pic along with the 12v conversion info!

Park