Rob, the one pictured will work great ---I've been using one for years.

Thanks Kerry! 🙂

Rob

Yep. Best one to use.

Rob,
The job may require application of some heat in moderation to get the hub to "pop" loose. Resist the urge to strike the end of the puller screw to break it loose as this may damage or even shatter the thrust button on the inboard end of the axle. Be careful not to mushroom the threaded end of the axle....restoring that 3/4-20 ([i]extra[/i] fine (as opposed to common 3/4-16 fine) thread is a challenge.....I'm told. I use a special 3/4-20, center-drilled "cap-nut" so that the puller screw doesn't bear directly on the end of the axle.
F

Rob
Frank gave some good advice. After removing the axle nut I spray penetrating oil on axle and hub let it set over night. I put axle nut back on axle backward flush with end of axle to help prevent mushrooming end of axle. Hub comes off easier giving time for penetrating oil to. work. And a lot less work for you hammering on dog bone.
Lww

In addition to liberal doses of penetrating oil, I'd suggest tapping the brake drum with a hammer as you rotate it, as you're tightening the puller. This could help the drum break loose from the axle.

And don't forget to leave the nut on the axle (just back it off enough to let the drum break loose). You don't want to suddenly become the recipient of a flying brake drum and puller in your stomach.

Thank you all for the tips about heat, penetrating oil, and using the nut to prevent damage to the axle, and me!

I like the idea of a cap nut as well, never heard that one before.
It will be good to have a puller. After the rear end rebuild I want to get the rear brakes adjusted just so, and for future work it will be good to have.

Rob

Do most of you replace the thrust button?
From reading the manuals, it sounds like it is pressed into the end of the axle shaft, though I have yet to find any drawings.
Are they available or must one find a better axle if they are worn or damaged.
What symptoms would they offer if they have been damaged, or are badly worn?

My rear end has very recently begun clunking when placed from neutral to drive, or from drive to reverse, but doesn't give indication of looseness any other time, such as while up or downshifting, turning, etc.

Rob

when I got my 53 both sides were mushroomed. they even got one nut started back on destroying it too. I bought the correct die and with some careful filing on the tip I was able to get the die started. it was not easy!

Stacy,

Were you able to determine what caused the mushrooming, and how did the rear end act with the extra clearance?

Rob

I'm guessing that the clunking might be caused because there's too much play in the rear end gears, or possibly because of loose u-joints (that would be a simple fix!).

Regarding the thrust button, if it's only slightly worn I think you could take that up by adding shims to the bearing retainer. With any luck someone will know the dimension of how much the button should protrude from the shaft, so you can check that when you pull the axle.

Did you check for broken center drive shaft support bushing.
Lee O'Dell

Rob,
Check bearing clearance/end-play before removing the axles and if you don't change anything (i.e,, cups, cones, shims) and the buttons are OK (which they likely are) then it should go back together with the same end play.
Are you doing a brake job? I assume so, since you don't need to remove axles to adjust them "just so", as you mentioned. I have suggestions (not always popular) on that subject as well (amazing, but true).
Another possible source of a "clunk" is a loose rear hub that has beaten/partially sheared the axle key, but that will be obvious
when removing the hub/drum.
F

Jon, I checked for loose "U" joints a couple weeks ago, all good.
Lee, Yes, we checked the center driveshaft support and it was good as well.
I'm going to jack up the back of the car and see if there are any obvious sounds/play when turning the rear wheels.

Frank, I do plan on a brake job, but hope to get the rear end gears changed first.
Once that is done (in someones shop) I can at my leisure pull the hubs back off and get the brakes just right.
By "just right" I mean turn the hubs, free/ loosen the centering bolt, clean and lube everything, and set clearances as they should be.

I'm always open to suggestions. I may not choose to use them, but am willing to listen. I have good brakes now, however I want to be able to lock up all 4 wheels, if needed. A properly adjusted brake system should deliver that potential.
I also want the most shoe contact possible. currently the shoes are not centered leaving the system lacking, and the pedal not as high as It could be.

Thanks all, for your thoughts and help!

Rob