I'm planning to do a rear end swap on my '51 Pacemaker to get a highway-friendly gear into it. I have an AMC 20 rear end in mind out of a '76 Hornet Sportabout -- should be about the same width, but has a 2.73:1 gear in it. However, the snout where the pinion gear extends out of the housing is shorter in the AMC rear than the Hudson, necessitating a longer rear drive/prop shaft. I was wondering -- I know my Pacemaker has a shorter wheelbase than other '51 models, does anyone know if Hudson used a longer rear shaft on the other models, and if so, how much longer? I may eventually have one made, but if there's an original part out there that would work, that appeals to me. Thanks to all.
Find a 308 rear and it will go right in as all 48 to 54 have narrow rears and the drive shaft are all the same. What transmission is in your car? Standard have a longer shaft, overdrive and automatics has a shaft about 10 inches shorter, just the front half. Walt.
My car is a standard, no overdrive. I'm under the impression that Hudson didn't make a rear end with the gearing I'm looking for to allow highway speeds w/o overdrive -- my car has a 4.1, and with the tires I'm running I'm pushing it going much over 50. I'd like to be able to cruise at 75 or so, so I'm interested in a sub-3.0 ratio, and I already have the AMC rear. If I'm mistaken about Hudson ratios, I'd love to stay closer to stock -- otherwise I'm mostly looking for a longer rear shaft, or will have to have one fabricated. Thanks for your response.
John, What Walt is referring to is the Dana 44 that was used for last few years of the stepdown Hudson's.
If you search for Dana 44 on this site you will find that parts are available. The Dana 44 was used in many cars and trucks.
Larry
Ahhh, there's the confusion. Thank you, I was not aware that they had moved to a different rear end in '52. I will keep my eye out for one, but am still considering using the AMC 20 that I already have (along with the rest of the AMC, fwiw). I'm still curious about rear prop shaft lengths, but it's very nice to know that a bolt-in option exists, though it might take some searching to find one.
Be careful on which gear ration you choose. Your engine is a 232 CID and if ratio is below 3.0 you will be in second gear most of the time. 232 has very little torque. That is why I said 308. Walt.
Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I've owned the car for about a year now, and have been feeling out the power curve of the engine. I am definitely anticipating slow acceleration with a highway gear, but could always go to lower profile tires to help out if need be. I'm definitely on a budget and am trying to work with what I have available as much as possible, so I'm afraid that an engine swap is not feasible for the foreseeable future. However, I haven't turned any wrenches on the rear end yet, so you never know!
I'd go even further than Walt and suggest nothing lower than about 3.30 for that car. Regarding the driveshaft length issue, if you're in or near a city of any size, there'll be a shop that specializes in driveshafts who can make whatever you need. Fortunately the u-joints Hudson used are still in use in many applications, so a shop can install the proper trunnions with no problems.
Thanks for chiming in. I do indeed live in a city of appropriate size, and have been advised that I'm looking at a few hundred dollars to have one made from scratch. I may well go that route, but was curious to see if there was an existent part that would fit the bill. Thanks for the input on gear ratio, I do have some concerns about that as well.
John,
The 1948 to early 1952 rear driveshafts were all the same length. Differences caused by 3 speed, overdrive, hydramatic, and wheelbase were all taken care of by varying the length of the front driveshaft.
I do not know whether the rear driveshaft for 1948 to early 1952 is the same length as the rear driveshaft for late 1952 to 1954.
I also don't know whether the front driveshaft for the long wheelbase, three speed transmission is longer than what you need to use with rear end you have. If it is longer, you could get one from Al Saffrahn or other club members, and have it shortened. It is cheaper to have a driveshaft shortened, I believe, than to construct a longer one.
Per
With those prices, I'd certainly not have one made unless as a last resort !
IMO, Your '51 Pacemaker, as Walt described , has a torque issue being only a 232 CID. It also has a HUDSON built rear end. The easiest way to accomplish your ratio problem is to install a 3:58 ratio, HUDSON rear 3rd. member. It will be all that the engine can handle. Changing to this 3rd. member will not require you to shorten or lengthen the drive-shaft or change anything else. It will pull slow to cruising speeds, BUT cruise OK. When going up a steep grade or even consistent hills, It will be out of power and require a constant up-shift to a lower gear. That is with a 3:58 gear. If you install the 2:73, spending all the $$$ to convert it over, it will probably be a power robbing disaster . If you install over-drive, which is costly, BUT also makes the car !! That is why an overdrive equipped cars cost more-it's worth it! Good luck, hope this helps
