Sounds like you still have an open between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.

See my response on the other forum.

J,
To test the neutral safety switch,
try putting a jumper across the two terminals of the neutral safety switch. With the transmission in neutral, turn the key to the start position. If the car starts, the problem is with the neutral safety switch.

To test the solenoid,
with the ignition off, try putting a jumper from the live terminal of the battery to the small terminal on the solenoid. If the starter turns, the solenoid is good.

Per

Jay, a simple test light goes a long way. Take the test light, attach the lead to the ground strap, touch it to the other post, verify it works. Now touch the small post on top of the solenoid, does it light when you turn the key, yes/no, no, check neutral safety switch. same test, turn the key , both of the spades should pass current when the key is turned, from there it goes to the starter solenoid. .-[ the post that have the screw down spades are the switch portion]- , the 2 post sticking up are for reverse/back-up lights. If that doesn't light up, take the test light inside, making sure the ground on the test light is good, turn the key and verify there is power coming from the switch on energize position. The neutral safety switch can be real sensitive when adjusting.

When putting a jumper acrossed the neutral safety switch, remember, it can start in gear if that is the problem and could take off.

Doug

I have the driveline out of the car just for this reason. I won't put it in 'til I have the safety switch resolved. Mean while I'll go out with my trusty test light & try all of your suggestions.

thanks for your help.

J Lombard

Per

I jumped the two spaded posts on the neutral safety switch turned ignition key to "on" & "start" result no reaction.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "live" post of battery but here is what I did:

I have a 6v pos. grnd. battery. .

I jumped from the st term. (small) of the solenoid to the neg. post of the battery result no reaction
I jumped from the st term. (small) of the solenoid to the pos. post of the battery result the engine turns over
What do you think?

J

Doug

I verified the test light works. I left the test lead attached to the ground strap & the light lead to the st (small) term of the solenoid. I get a light when the ignition switch is in all 3 positions i.e. "off", "on" & "start". Still the engine will not turn over.

J

J,

From the testing that you have done, it seems like the other end of the winding inside the solenoid is connected to the big terminal on the solenoid, and therefore is connected to the negative post of the battery. It is receiving negative voltage all the time. (I said "live" terminal before because I wasn't sure you have the positive ground connection.) When you connected the small terminal to the positive post of the battery, there was current in the winding, and the solenoid operated. I am not used to seeing a Hudson solenoid winding connected this way.

In the Hudsons I have had experience with (all standard shift), a wire goes from the ignition switch to the starter button, and a wire goes from there to the small terminal on the solenoid. When the start button is pressed (or the key turned to the "start" position), the solenoid winding, through the small terminal, receives negative voltage. The electricity goes through the winding to the other end of the winding which is connected to the case of the solenoid (the positive end of the connection).

I do not know whether in the hydramatic cars, there is a relay introduced into the circuit between the "start" terminal of the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch and starter solenoid. My 1951 Hudson service manual has an electrical diagram , but it doesn't include the arrangement for hydframatic with the neutral safety switch. If there is a relay, it could be connected to ground the small terminal, so the solenoid you have would work.

I just tried to see if I could find a '53 circuit diagram in Alex Burr's information, but I didn't know how to find it.

I hope this is helpful. As a temporary measure, you could run a wire into the car from the small terminal, and use a push button switch to start the car!

Per

Per - I don't have a '53 service manual in the online library. However, that could be quickly remedied if someone would lend us one to scan. It would have to be taken apart and returned in a 3-ring binder is the only problem. Or if it's ratty enough so taking it apart wouldn't be an issue.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

J and Alex,

I was able to find a Hudson Jet wiring diagram on the web. Again, they don't show the starter connection that includes the neutral safety switch used with hydramatic cars.
\
Are you sure your solenoid is for a Hudson?

Per

[quote="J Lombard" post=12586]Doug

I verified the test light works. I left the test lead attached to the ground strap & the light lead to the st (small) term of the solenoid. I get a light when the ignition switch is in all 3 positions i.e. "off", "on" & "start". Still the engine will not turn over.

J

You shouldn't have any voltage on the small wire when the key is in the run or off position. Otherwise your starter would turn all the time. Remove the wire from the solenoid and test again. You should get no voltage in the off and run position and 6v in the start position. If you don't, then you have an open going to the ignition switch. If you get 6v then run a ground wire from the solenoid to the battery ground. If the car starts then you have an insulated base solenoid (Ford) instead of the correct grounded base Hudson one. If it still doesn't start, replace the solenoid.

Eddie

In an earlier thread when I was initially wiring the car I asked if there was a polarity issue with the starter solenoid the indication was "no" just make sure it was a 6v solenoid. I went down to the local O'reilly parts house & got a 6v starter solenoid, installed it per the Hudson wiring diagram. You see the results.

regards

J

Eddie is correct, there should only be power at the top solenoid-small wire, when the key is turned all the way to the entergize position. If you have power there all the time, the starter solenoid would never shut off. As eddie recommends, remove the wire and re-check again. You could be reading feedback because of incorrect wiring installation. You might need a ground as he has recommended also. Something you have to check, make sure you have the solenoid installed with the correct post in place. If they are backwards, it could show voltage, but not make the solenoid click/function. ?.

I verified the test light works. I left the test lead attached to the ground strap & the light lead to the st (small) term of the solenoid. I get a light when the ignition switch is in all 3 positions i.e. "off", "on" & "start". Still the engine will not turn over.

J

You shouldn't have any voltage on the small wire when the key is in the run or off position. Otherwise your starter would turn all the time. Remove the wire from the solenoid and test again. You should get no voltage in the off and run position and 6v in the start position. If you don't, then you have an open going to the ignition switch. If you get 6v then run a ground wire from the solenoid to the battery ground. If the car starts then you have an insulated base solenoid (Ford) instead of the correct grounded base Hudson one. If it still doesn't start, replace the solenoid.

J,

To see if the solenoid is normal, disconnect the small wire from it. Measure the voltage at the small terminal.
If the voltage is 0, then the solenoid is connected properly inside.
If there is voltage, it is connected the way I thought it might be in my last message.

While still disconnected, measure the voltage at the end of the small wire.
There should be voltage only when the key is in the "start" position.

Per