Rob - Your engine most likely has a 180^ thermostat in it, thus the 190^ at the top of the radiator. I run 160^ stats, and the temp reading on the dash never gets above the 1/2 way mark, even in 85 to 95 degree days running up Jelico Mountain in Tennessee in October.

Jerry stated it correctly. You should be running at the half way mark, but going up hills it may climb a little higher. Walt.

Jerry and Walt, thank you.

Since I've changed the system to 12 volts and am still trying to find the right voltage reducer to run the gauges, can either of you tell me what temperature I should be reading with my IR gauge?/what the actual temperature in your cars is when the needle is at the halfway mark?
I'm not sure that the in dash gauge is reading correctly.

Is there an extra port anywhere to install a probe for a secondary temperature gauge?

Rob

Lines on the stock gauge are:

1st mark: 140
2nd mark (middle): 160
3rd Mark: 180
4th mark (high): 200

I am running an aftermarket gage set and have its temp. probe in the stock location; I have purchased a new sensor and when I drain the system will drill & tap into the thermostat outlet for the probe so as to run both. Considering anyway.

Richard and Russell, thank you.

Richard,
I'm considering a different thermostat housing, maybe Walt's bypass, adding a probe there would be easy.

Russ, those numbers to match the marks are exactly what I was after.
So, I'm not overheating, it is where it is supposed to be, that is reassuring.

Rob

[b]FYI
Suggest to double check the Temp Gauge accuracy by purchasing an inezpensive licquid Cooking Thermometer then get your car warm and carefully remove the radiator cap then insert the Thermometer[/b]

Or, purchase a infra red thermometer and shoot a beam at the thermo housing, top tank, and the cooler lower hose flange. I used to use my wifes' candy thermometer... until she found out. Aim the laser beam at the fuel pump if you have a strong stomach. At 92-95 degrees ambient air temp in traffic the top of my fuel pump will show 157deg. That is why fuel starvation is such an issue when winter formulated gas is still in the tank on a hot day. "Triage" your fuel and limp into summer with as little winter fuel as possible. Here in Az the winter fuel will flash off ( begin to percolate)at 105-110 degrees at 0 psi with 4 psi in the fuel system it will raise higher of course, but not enough. Summer gas percs at about 145. I add a mylar pad over the pump and mylar covered fuel lines help as well as moving the pump/to carb lines as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible and be sure to use insulators & correct amount of gaskets under the carb(s).

Ron and Chuck,

Thank you for the tips!

I have been using my IR.( Infrared thermometer) to check the top of the tank by the hose (hottest area) and at the back of the head where the probe is. The cooking thermometer is a good backup to that.

I'll look into the fuel pump and line insulation if I start having troubles.

Rob