Hi Charlie,

Whenever you are trying to "fine tune" an engine the valves are the first thing to adjust.
Installing new points and setting timing is important, but will need to be readjusted after you adjust the valves.

Is the timing set pretty close? Do you have any vacuum leaks?
Is the engine running out of fuel at half throttle, or missing, backfiring, cutting out, etc?
Have you adjusted the air/fuel mixture on the carb, it may be going lean.
Bad plugs and or wires can also cause similar symptoms.

Rob

if you just did all of the things you listed, you must put a balestrezester in power line from ignion to coil all 12 volt cars had them from the 50s to the 70s, make sure the neg (-) side of coil goes to dist and plus (+) from power line look at it do not assum its right, if this was your proublem re check points thay may have goten a littel bernt

I have a coil that doesn't need a resistor replaced spark plugs check to plug wires adjusted carb. adjusted timeing haven't adjusted valvle it is cutting out

Have you tried spark plug wires?. Did you replace the spark plugs before this problem came up?. Spark plugs are not the same quality as they used to be, and a slight mis-fire or old fuel- {which can be 6 months old or LESS] will foul the spark plugs also. Also, make sure that the wire in the distributor is not trying to break. If you pull the distr.cap off, slight pull the wire that goes to the points. So many times, folks pulling into a Hudson meet talk about how it took them to get there because their car wouldn't go any faster than 30-40 mph. These are a few more things to check,good luck

Do you recommend a NGK B7HS over a NGK B6HS so as to be hotter to eliminate deposits?
Tks~~

I took a ohm meter and check plug wires used champion h-10 plugs will check dist. wire

If one wire has a lot more resistance than the others , you need a new wire or a new set. Resistance per foot should be about the same on all the wires. Keep wires away from metal and each other as much as possible. Use the cheap separators as needed; and use best wire you can rationalize.

Charlie, I am talking about the wire that goes to the points. These can cause the very problem you are having. Also, if the timing is already too fast, as the rpm increases, the distributor advances too far and will cause these problems. A few things to check. If you have a timing light, check the timing. When the rpm is raised, the timing mark goes up. Check to see how erratic or steady it is . If it is steady and not bouncing around, then proceed looking further, but if it is kind of jumping around at a steady RPM, roughly 2000rpm,then the timing chain could be bad. Even,- low compression usually describes a worn out chain, but not to be a fact. If your timing light has a degree wheel, you can check exactly where the timing is. There are so many basic things you need to know to make an educated plan or approach to the repair. Remember, it could be as simple as fouled spark plugs. Like I said, if you put them in awhile ago, they could be bad aagin, but if the problem existed, and then you put them in and it didn't resolve anything, then they are probably not the problem. Did you gap them before you installed them?. You also might pull a few of them, and re-check the gap. A few years ago, 2004 at the Pittsburgh International to be exact, Rick Crawley, a Southern IND chapter member had a similar running problem with his '49 262, narrow block. We gaped and replaced the spark plugs. It started right up, and then died. We just stood there with what the heck on our faces?. We pulled a spark plug, re-checked the gap. We found they were almost closed. We decided someone had milled the cylinder head, beyond usable specs and had installed a set of the GMC exhaust valves to boot,, which was common at some point. Between the 2, a standard spark plug would not work. After inspecting the old spark plugs, we found that they all had at least 3 sealing washers on them before they were installed. A little more checking and I'm sure you will find the problem. Don't get discouraged. Try to diagnose the problem though, and not just throw parts at it.

Also double-check the polarity of the coil connections. Neg should be going to the distributor (assuming you've changed to negative ground). Symptoms sound a bit like bad condenser, so even if you've replaced it, it may be worth the trouble to try another one, preferably of a different mfr. Recent years have brought some cheapies that are faulty when installed.