Hi Rob
For some reason Hudson decided to pack steel wool material inside the frame which traps moisture. It is visible in the front part of the frame that is rusted through on my car and packed in pretty good. I don't know if it is only in the front part of the frame or all of it. Someone may know the answer.
Lee O'Dell

Make sure you have ALL the rubber pieces on body at rear of front tires. And seal where the pieces meet each other and at the edges and the opening at the extreme top. I used black silicone to do that. And don't drive in rain unless you have to. I haven't even washed my '53 but once in 19 months and that was just a quick one.

For what it's worth, and worth all it cost, Mercedes built drain holes (8 or 10) into their 123 models (about 1977 to 1984( you can google it) and advises flushing them with water fall and spring, or something like that.

It's impressive how much junk gets flushed out. 123 Mercedes cars have a unibody rather than a body welded to a frame like the stepdown Hudsons.

I can't see how it could hurt to flush out a cavity as long as it can finally drain dry.

[quote="Robert Bigham" post=12037]For what it's worth, and worth all it cost, Mercedes built drain holes (8 or 10) into their 123 models (about 1977 to 1984( you can google it) and advises flushing them with water fall and spring, or something like that.

It's impressive how much junk gets flushed out. 123 Mercedes cars have a unibody rather than a body welded to a frame like the stepdown Hudsons.

I can't see how it could hurt to flush out a cavity as long as it can finally drain dry.

This would work if you put drain holes in the bottom of the frame of your stepdown. Ideally, the only real way to completely preserve the frame is to get the car down to the shell and e-coat it. I considered that when my car was on the rotisserie, but eventually opted against it, due to the fact that it's inclement days are mostly over (except getting caught accidentally). In the meantime, if you have a good frame, try not to get it wet, and don't drive it in the winter on salt- or chemical-laden roads. And coat the underside, if you want, it helps.

Thank you all for the thoughts and tips!

I'll study the frames and options further before making any decisions.

The only two clear facts currently are that the car is going to get wet, and I want to at least slow potential rusting.
While I'll not drive on chemically treated roads in the winter, I didn't save for years to buy a car that I can't allow to get wet...

Has to be a middle ground.

Rob

My Hudsons have been getting wet for years - '53 Super Jet since 1966 when it had approx 52,000 miles on it - It now has apprx 97,000 miles on the clock. Have not had any problems with rust-out or even surface rust.
My '54 Hornet has been with me for over five years, and a cleaner undercarrage you cannot find. Again, having driven it in wet conditions, and cannot find any additional rust anywhere.

Rob,

Years ago when walking through junk yards I saw cars which had big rust holes in the floor. However, just over the rear of the transmission, there was an accumulation of gear oil which had been spewed out of the rear seal of the transmission. If I scraped this away, there was still paint on the bottom surface of the floor - no rust at all.

Some years later I bought a '56 VW Beetle. It was 17 years old and still had solid rocker panels. On these cars, the running board is screwed onto the rocker panel. I had seen many beetles which either had no running boards any more, or where only the screws at each end attaching the running board to the front and rear fender were still holding it on.

I also had realized by that time that a lot of serious rusting takes place from the inside-out on hollow structures. So, I drilled a half-inch hole midway on the top surface of each rocker panel. When I changed the oil (the engine took 2 1/2 quarts) I would put the other half quart into one of the rocker panels, alternating between them each oil change. This car took my wife to work and back for twelve years, and then was "standby" for several more years. My rocker panels were still solid when a barn collapsed on the VW and I sold it to someone who knows how to do serious metal work.

My best friend (Tom Feininger, Quebec HET chapter) moved to Quebec City around that time, and discovered that there are several chains of places that do rust proofing. He chose one called Antirouille Metropolitain (Metropolitan Antirust), that uses oil to spray on the bottom and into hollow compartments of the car. They drill half-inch holes near the bottom of doors and other places to reach enclosed spots. Most times I visit him I have the car I am driving oiled by them. In 1980 Tom bought a Jeep Cherokee, a car which is notorious for having its frame rust away. He kept it for fifteen years, (it got may oil treatments) then I got it and drove it for about a dozen more years. The frame never rusted out, and there were no holes in the fenders or rocker panels.

A paint-type coating can only work if the metal is totally clean. Otherwise the coating can trap water and cause corrosion. I have seen cases where tar was used, but although the tar remained, the metal it was supposed to protect had partly rusted away.

Oil, on the other hand, soaks into the area and prevents water from getting there. I think it is the best thing for enclosed areas. if that steel wool gets soaked in oil (assuming it is dry first) it will not cause a problem.

My favorite mixture, if I am doing it myself, is a mixture of chassis grease and motor oil. I have an old electric mixer that mixes it well. I use thick oil (20W-50), so I can use less grease to get the consistency I want (grease is more expensive than oil). This I apply with a brush, or with an improvised "sprayer" that sends out globs of the stuff from the end of a tube, which allows me to get into doors without having to take the upholstery off. I just drill a half-inch hole where needed, and then put in a plastic or rubber plug.

One should avoid putting it where it can rub off onto clothing!

Per

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALpAnx-t1so

might interest someone~~

Jerry,

Thank you.

Some parts of the country are very lucky to not have de-icing chemicals slathered all over the roads at the slightest hint of foul weather.
Could your cars have come from a chemical free area?
As with wood in vintage travel trailers (another of my hobbies) getting wet doesn't hurt it as long as it can quickly dry.
I would guess that steel is similar if not exposed to chemicals. How else can all the dry western cars survive so long...

Rob

Per and Richard,

Thank you.

I like the oil/grease theory. As most of us have found over the years, greasy oily parts don't rust. Applying this solution intentionally is a reasonable alternative that would seem to have a good chance at working.

The internal frame coating is something I've looked at before, and also seems a viable solution. I wonder if it is just thin zinc chromate?
If a fellow applied the internal frame coating first, allowed it plenty of time to dry, then did an annual or semi annual oil treatment, the car might actually last a while. [img] [/img]

Rob

I've been told that used diesel oil sticks best, not sure though. I steam pressure cleaned the channels on my 53 four times. Hope they are dirt free? Applied KBS frame coater the best I could, now plan to use Fluid Film as the final step. I know farmers who fluid film equipment that sits outside all winter and does a good job against the elements. Good luck

spray it with reyno liner

Carl and Charlie,

It is good to hear others have tried some of the rustproofing methods I'm thinking about.
I like the two or three pronged approach.
Thank you for sharing your experience.

Rob