Jerry,

I'll reinspect them, thank you!

Rob

Russell,

Thank you.

Yes, I agree, each brand does have unique engineering, issues, and corrections.
My 22 Hupmobile was vastly different from my 29 Ford, and it from my 60 Met.
I'm out to learn all I can, read several books yesterday, and of course am asking all the questions I can here.

Sounds like a call to Gus may be in order since he has no doubt come upon this issue.

It actually downshifts fairly smooth, it is the up shifts that are a little harsh. And it may be me...
I have exactly 200 miles of Hydra-matic experience.
I drove another Hydra-matic, and it was incredibly smooth, both up and down, that is why I question if mine needs attention.
It isn't so bad it isn't fun to drive, it could simply be better. When there is less torque, as in lower speeds/easier on the accelerator through the shifting range, it is smoother, stomp harder on the gas and it is rougher.

The car had been greased fairly regularly, but I did find a few zerks that had been missed in the most recent greasing.
I looked for the rear bearing fittings, but couldn't find them. I knew it had to have a way to grease them...thank you for that valuable tip!
Could be they haven't been greased in 30 years.

The big Colorado meet will be a great place to learn too. Maybe I can talk a couple people into giving me a short ride so I can see what a Hudson in good order is like.

Rob

Compression numbers aside, it still seems that you've got a weak cylinder. Bad spark plug or plug wire?

JLombard
Sorry I didn't respond sooner to your question. My computer froze and is working again today.

As you have probably seen on Richard Dryman's post he shows a very good illustratiom of the difference between a driveshaft in phase and out of phase. A driveshaft out of phase will give similar symtem as an out of balance driveshaft and will cause the U joints to bind and wear out prematurely and induce unwanted stress's to transmission and differential. But will only vibrate when car is in motion.
Lee O'Dell

Rob,

In reference to the smooth or rough shifting. My first Hudson, a 1951 Hornet hydramatic, shifted very smoothly between second and third gear. Under load, the motor sped up slightly as it shifted. I was told that it was getting worn out, so I tried to ease off the gas to let it make the shift. Very smooth shifting of this transmission may be a sign of a lot of wear! (I'm not an expert on this). It might be best to be happy that you can feel the shifts.

When an engine is turning fast, such as at highway speed, there should be no vibration even if one cylinder is not working at all. That has been my experience with a variety of cars.

My guess as to the source of the vibration is that there is metal-to-metal contact somewhere.

Per

Compression numbers aside, it still seems that you've got a weak cylinder. Bad spark plug or plug wire?

Park,

I didn't like those numbers either...

We used a different compression tester last night to re-check;

Orig-120-112-105-100-111-116
New-115-112-105-110-110-115

Odd differences...
Tried a teaspoon of oil in the lowest cylinder and got a 10 psi increase, which is odd as I put it in with a can oiler and it went on top of the valves. We didn't wait, just did the test again, seems like it wouldn't have had time to spread around the bore and seal the rings.
I was told the head gasket was recently replaced, and so checked the head bolts, all were at 65.

My son, a certified master tech, is going to come over tonight with his (far more modern) tools and recheck compression and do a leak down test.
There was a suspicious vacuum or exhaust leak in the center of the manifolds down low when we did the initial look over before buying the car.
Once we get a good understanding of the engines condition, we'll start troubleshooting.

Rob

Per,

Thanks for your thoughts.

There is no slipping, so I am pleased with that!
Your metal to metal suspicion is I think, correct.
Love a good mystery! [img] [/img]

Rob

Rob, I didn't have an issue with your first compression readings. What puzzles me (and eliminates some of the other causes offered) is your comment that you're getting some vibration when you drop it into Drive, with the car not moving. That suggests the source is in the engine rather than somewhere in the rest of the driveline (though some of the driveline suggestions are quite valid).

It's quite likely you've got two things going. Re the vibration with the car not moving, have you tried tweaking the idle mixture and speed to see if the idle can be smoothed out a bit?

Park,

Sorry if my comments have been confusing...I'm working on/with two separate roughness/vibration issues.

The engine I think could be a little smoother, that said, it idles fairly smoothly.
At idle, when placed into gear, it ( the transmission or engine?) has a roughness to it while standing still or when moving.
If placed back in neutral while moving or when stopped, the roughness goes away.
As pointed out earlier, the drive shaft, wheels, rear end are all eliminated from the possible cause list.
I believe this eliminates the engine as well, leaving either the transmission, or transmission mounts and maybe the engine mounts and fluid coupling or associated parts?

Rob

I found this older read while using the site's "search" function and typing in "drive-line center carrier bearing." Hopefully someone can answer the following question regarding this center carrier bearing (on a 53' Hornet):

The bearing seems to be housed in a metal housing that is fastened to the cross frame via what seem to be two rubber isolation grommets ---when I twist the driveline with my hands clockwise (tranny in Neutral, rear wheels off ground, facing pumpkin), one side of the metal housing completely lifts off of the rubber grommet while the other side remains secured. In effect the driveline moves up and away from the grommet an inch or two. However, when I twist the driveline counterclockwise, the drive remains secured in place.

Is this normal or is something broken/come loose? Appreciate any feedback.

They are called carrier bearing mounts and they do break. They basically absorb some of the vibration going from the driveshaft to the crossmember. Wildrecks sells them and they are easy to install.
[url= https://www.wrphet.com/driveline---suspension.html ]https://www.wrphet.com/driveline---suspension.html[/url]

There is a bracket that bolts to the bottom of the carrier bearing housing with a single bolt. The mounts bolt the bracket to the crossmember. Attached is the picture of the carrier bearing housing on the drive shaft without the bracket. It is sitting on the flat portion that bolts to the bracket.

Thank you Christopher for the information and pics! I'll also take a pic of the broken piece(s) and post on the site for future reference.