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convertible top cylinders

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(@Terry Irvin)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I have removed one of the top lift cylinders from my project and found the ram is stuck in the bore. Before I force it down I wanted to make sure that the cylinder did not come this way...my way of thinking is that I should be able to push the ram down into the bore with modest resistance. The top was in the up position for at least 15 years with the rams extended. Terry


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 1:09 am
(@holden)
Posts: 478
Honorable Member Registered
 

Terry-

You should be able to push the rod back in the cylinder, provided there is a way for fluid or air to escape the cylinder. Also, since it's been so long, a good idea would be to make sure there is no rust on your rod, and even go the extra and wipe it down real good with some 3-in-1 oil. If it has crud on it, when you push the rod down, you could wipe out your upper seal. If you need replacements or parts, then I recommend Hydro-E-Lectric in FL. They are on the web.


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 3:25 am
(@eddiedog48)
Posts: 43
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there is a wirer on cylinder you need 6 volt power to open valve. thay move hard I used air i put atf in valve clicked it on and off untill it was full and oiled the rod the rod with atf (any light oil will work )


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 4:44 am
(@Terry Irvin)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

Thank you, gentlemen I lubed up the ram and cylinder and leaned on it and it broke loose. I then put some kerosene in a bottle and sucked it up inside the cylinder and let it set for about 10 minutes and wow, did the crud come flowing out. I did the same to the other end and the same thing happened- lots of crud. I removed the hoses and at the bottom was a piece of very soft rubber that I pulled out with an o-ring pick....about 3/4 inch long. Must be a part of the head connected to the ram....the part that is permanently sealed via the crimp. Hello Hydro-Electric....and yes, always replace in pairs! Thanks again Terry


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 5:47 am
(@holden)
Posts: 478
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Sorry, but that was probably to be expected.


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 6:38 am
(@Terry Irvin)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I now know that I'll be starting with the door and quarter windows first....replacement of those cylinders because I'm sure they're in the same shape as the lift cylinders. Russ, did you go with brake fluid or tranny fluid in the system and pump reservoir? Hydro-E gives a longer warranty for transmission fluid being used so that might be the route I go unless someone says brake fluid is better. Terry


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 12:42 pm
(@holden)
Posts: 478
Honorable Member Registered
 

I asked that question specifically and Hydro told me that it's fine to use ATF as long as new rubber extensions were put on the lines. Which of course, was no problem for me as everything had to be replaced or rebuilt. Also, I wanted to NOT use brake fluid, because if you have a leak, the brake fluid eats every bit of paint it encounters. ATF won't.


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 12:51 pm
(@holden)
Posts: 478
Honorable Member Registered
 

Terry-

Sent you a PM.


 
Posted : 19/05/2015 2:30 pm
(@smitrotterdam)
Posts: 68
Estimable Member Registered
 

I sell these cylinders and am cheaper than hydro-electric. Also made the necessary corrections to the window cylinders. Russ Maas 21stcenturyhudson.net. 309-838-555one


 
Posted : 22/05/2015 2:49 am
(@Terry Irvin)
Posts: 0
Topic starter
 

I curious as to the corrections you made. I'll be posting your company on my cork bulletin board so when the time comes.... Terry


 
Posted : 22/05/2015 6:10 am

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