i have a little trouble with the starter on my 53 308 with standard trans. after it gets warmed up it will not spin fast enough to start till it cfools down. i switched it out for another starter on a spair 308 i have and same thing. do you guys think it's the starter or something else causing the problem. is there anybody in the club that rebuilds starters? a couple of years back i talked to a place in town and they wanted $500- $700 which seemed crazy high. anybody have a rebuilt one for sale? thanks!
That's crazy high! Don't even consider it. These starters are of the same construction as most other makes for that year, and should be a piece of cake for anyone knowledgeable in this sort of thing.
I'm sure that someone (more knowledgeable than I!) will jump in here, with an answer to why heat is affecting the starter. The only answer I can think of, is that the engine was recently rebuilt and the internal clearances are still tight. Heat causes metal to expand, thus making tight clearances even tighter, and giving the starter a real job to do.
Just for fun: what is the condition of your battery and the connections to it? Are all connections "bright and tight", and do you have ground straps between the battery, engine and frame (i.e. one strap pos. batt. terminal to engine, another from engine or bell housing to frame)?
Stacy, that is way too high on a starter rebuild-restoration. Where are you located?
i wasn't really considering it, it's more than i gave for the car when i got it! I am in SPRINGFIELD, MO or southwest missouri. i thougt about taking it apart myself. i just recently fixed the problem on my millermatic 35 drive moter just by cleaning the armature and some other stuff. it's true the motor is pretty fresh, so that might be a bit of it. i am using a orig braded grounding strap, the other neg cables are pretty new and cleaned off. this starter didn't do well when i had it on the stand trying to start it before the rebuild.
There's probably nothing wrong with your starter. Make sure all your cable connections are bright and shiny. Also make sure you have the correct gauge battery cables. #1 gauge and a braided ground strap. #4 & #6 gauge are not going to make it.
thank you for all your suggestions. the one think I don't have is a separate grounding strap from engine block to frame. I think I will try that. thanks again. stacy k
Stacy, YOU MUST HAVE THE GROUND STRAP FROM THE BLOCK TO BATTERY BOX STUD ! If you don't, it will use all the other wires and anything else to make the ground necessary to spin, and usually cause numerous other electrical concerns. When you have the battery out, remove the stud at the battery box completely. If it is installed correctly, it should be a 5/16th's bolt and a flat washer, goes thru the hole in the battery box, now another flat washer, and lock washer, and a nut. The battery strap from the engine and battery cable,another flat,lock washer,and nut. When you have the bolt out, we always file the hole out and around the hole to make sure there is no corrosion and/or rust before installing it. We also use a little di-electric grease around it to prevent future corrosion. As Eddie pointed out, there probably nothing wrong with the starter. Low voltage and/or lack of ground=high resistance can cause damage to electrical components though, so after you have installed the strap and serviced the rest, re-check everything. There are other problems that are usually tel-tel signs when the grounds are bad. Hope this helps
thank you Mr Wildrick. I had forgot, but I had the extra braded strap from battery box to front motor mount stud on front motor horn. i forgot this was there. I did reclean every connection and I think I got a better connection on the front engine horn. I did recently switch to a optima battery and that seemed to help. I had kinda abused the other 6 volt battery trying to get this started when I first got the engine a couple of years back. I did drive around a couple of hours yesterday and it spun pretty good and started after I got back and it was plenty warm. I switched out the vacumn advance on the dist. I am still getting some cutting out at higher speeds. this was better but it still does it. I was a little disappointed about this. thanks again to everybody I am still getting little problems ironed out on this car.
Stacy, if you have a ground strap from the battery "box" to the front engine mount, where do you have the pos. battery terminal strap going to?
regards
J
sorry, these are orig straps I took off a 52 parts car I had. the first one goes up from motor mount on engine horn to front od battery box it's prob about 10". second one connects there and goes up to battery pos terminal. it's a little longer maybe 14" and has a battery clamp on one end.
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