i got a lot of practice a year or so back when I was having fuel pump trouble, I bet I removed and installed mine 20 times. I made a set of gaskets but the last pump I got came with a gasket stack stapled together. this spacing is supposed to be very important for the pump to work right. I would start off by turning the engine to make sure the lobe of cam is not making it harder to install. I would start off by slipping the arm under the cam, push up and in to move arm on pump back, then you are close enough to start cap screws. it also pretty easy to get the arm on wrong side of cam I was told but this never happened to me. good luck!

Yes - the cam lobe is probably making it tougher...I'll turn the engine and try again, thanks for the suggestion.

I have used longer studs to align the pump. Bump the starter while pushing the pump towards the block. You can feel the cam lobe fall away.. Then used the correct bolts.

Thanks to all, the suggestions worked. Here's what I did:

1. Rotated the engine to get the cam lobe out of the way.
2. Installed temporary studs, slid on gasket, spacer and then the pump.
3. Put a nut on one stud, tightened it up, put a block under pump to prevent movement.
4. Removed other stud and replaced with bolt, partially tightened
5. Repeated the procedure on the other side.
6. Final tighten bolts

I reconnected all the fuel and vacuum lines, and it started right up, works great. One step closer to road tripping!

This topic could not have come at a better time. I am trying to re-install the fuel pump on my 1940 super six. When I removed the pump all it had between the block and the fuel pump was a very thin gasket. According to my manual it should have had a spacer, an oil baffle made of metal and a gasket. I talked with Dale Cooper and he sent me the spacer and two short cardboard tubes and two washers. The spacer is five pieces stapled together. When I asked him about the oil baffle he said I didn't need it. The cardboard tubes go on the bolts though I don't understand why unless they are designed to prevent heat transfer.

I have been trying to re-mount the pump and with the spacer (which was not there previously though it is listed in the manual) my bolts only have about one thread showing when I try to screw them into the block. I have tried to push the pump on tight to compress the spacer so I can get the bolts started. So far no luck. I will try the procedure explained in the previous posts.

Do any of you know if I do in fact need the metal oil baffle that is described in my manual?

Regards,

Marvin

i would say that thay put shorter bolts in when thay did not use spacers.you need longer bolt

I would go out and buy bolts that were just enough longer to have a few more threads -- maybe 1/4" to 3/8" longer, depending upon what the next size of bolt is. You don't want to go too deep with the bolts of course, or you might hit some "moving" thing in the engine.

I'm sure Dale knows what he is talking about, but: what is the thickness of the spacer he gave you? Maybe someone with a '40 can verify that this is indeed the correct spacer.

And by the way, are you sure you have the correct fuel pump for the car?

The parts manual says that the pump needs:

Fuel pump oil baffle
Fuel pump oil baffle spacer
Fuel pump oil baffle to cylinder gasket
Fuel pump to cylinder gasket
Fuel pump to cylinder bolt insulating sleeve. Note 8
Standard
Fuel pump to cylinder bolt insulating washer. Pump
Fuel pump to cylinder bolts (2)

By the way, you are aware that there are shop and parts manuals online, at this website? Parts manuals are an excellent way to know exactly what parts are in the engine.

The correct fuel pump is AC number AK 1523289 used on 1937-1939 except Model 90 and 1940-1942 all except 40, 48, 10, 18, 20 and 28.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

Marvin,
Per Alex, the correct pump is the AK (AJ is optional double diaphragm) but it's possible that an AF may have been installed at some time in the past. You said it's a Super Six which would be a 212 but, is it possible that it's a model 40 (Traveller, Deluxe Six) and originally had a 175 in it? The pump for that application is the AF which doesn't mount with the gasket stack as with the others. It just has a gasket as you described.
Adding the 5/16" stack may render the pump inoperable. Also, someone may have changed it to the AF which has much less output but will certainly supply a 212 just fine exc. maybe at extended WOT conditions.
The baffle isn't mandatory, (usually lost 50 years ago anyway) and isn't used with the AF.
The AK has the sediment bowl oriented downward, generally away from the block, and the AF has it inverted directly centered over the diaphragm.
I'd include photos but I can't find my danged camera!
F

Guys,

Sorry I did not get back sooner. I have a model 41 the 2 door touring sedan; according to my manual I have the type AP fuel pump. The sediment bowl set off to the side. It should have .015 inch thick gasket, a .275 inch spacer (compresses to .250).

I will try to get slightly longer bolts so I have enough thread to get started screwing it in. I will measure the spacer to make sure it is the correct size.

I'll let you know what I work out.

Marvin

Interesting.....I find installation details on the AK but none for the AP. However, the AC part No. is the same 1523289 for either and they look the same, so I guess one may assume (you know what that means) that the spacer/gasket combo is the same.
F

Sorry, Frank - my post wasn't clear. AC is the manufacturer (AC comes from the founder of the AC Corporation ((A)lbert (C)hampion). The company origiannly made spark plugs (Champion) and was known originally as the Champion Spark Plug Co., but had to change the name when it was discovered the term "Champion" was trade-marked.

Sp AC is the maker and AK the part prefix.

Hudsonly,
Alex B

Oh, I was never confused about what AC meant. The pump models of AC pumps were AK, AF, and AJ with an AP also shown. My comment was that the AC part numbers for both the AK and AP is 1523289, implying that they are interchangeable and the installation details are the same.
Enough.
F