There are two sets of instructions regarding which cylinder to set on TDC for that engine (or any of the pressure lubed sixes) , depending n whether you refer to the '48-'54 MPM or the '53 Supplement. They are in 180 degree opposition to one another. I've been waiting for this to happen to some one other than me.
If I recall correctly, the '48-'54 MPM says to set the crank at TDC of #1 and the other says #6. Obviously, both pistons are at TDC but on opposite locations in the cycle. Check to see which instructions you used and adjust accordingly, if necessary.
There is another possibility........if you had the distributor dis-assembled during the previous repair operations and had the centrifugal advance mechanism removed, it's possible to re-assemble it with the upper shaft 180 degrees out, which positions the rotor 180 degrees out.
Just my observations without actually having my eyes on it.
I wrote a lengthy post on this subject some time back but never heard a peep.
Frank

The long line on the flywheel lines up with #1 and #6 cylinder. When you instal a new timing chain it is set for #6 cylinder. The oil pump can be set in any position. When I install a new cam gear on the pump, I set the distributor rotor pointing to #1 before I remove the pump. After new gear is installed I fill the pump rotors with vaseline, clean off pump face, install O ring gasket and install cover, but do not turn gear. Coat the gear good also, install pump and where it sets in is now #1. Install distributor and where rotor is facing Is now #1, so just install the plug wires starting with #1 and go clock wise with the rest. Hudson had the tool to set pump on #1 but it is a 2 man job, in and out a few times. Walt.

I must correct my previous post by saying that it's the '48 to '52 MPM, not '48 to '54.

Granted, you can install the pump in any position and shuffle the wires on the cap to correspond with your random selection, but I prefer to install them as shown in the manual, just for s**ts and giggles. I use a spring-loaded version of the installation tool so that I don't need to be on top and underneath at the same time.....makes a one man job out of it. When you work alone, it's an inspiration to devise such methods.
If you are removing/installing the pump on an engine in the chassis, I use a procedure to mark the pump rotors for re-installation in the same position so that all goes back as it was without trial and error methods......saves much time and frustration.
F.

if you had your disturator apart or rebuilt i would say the rotor point lobe part was put back on advanes wight 180 out,i did it when i put a new point breaker plate in

Gert Kristiansen makes and sells the special tool to set the oil pump properly to install distributor. Well worth it for a one man job. I don't remember what I paid for mine at the time but I believe it was less than $40. gkristi@copper.net.

Lee O'Dell

That MUST be the answer. As in the other post, I eluded to the point about setting up on either #1 or #6, as I could swear I had read about that before (not remembering if it was on the forum, or in the manual-- maybe both). As a matter of fact, I had made a call to Wildrick Restoration (who did the assembly on the motor) to ask if they had set it up for #1 or #6 TDC.

At least I'm not losing my mind. Yet. For the record, the distributor was re-built with EFI and I'm sure it was not noted which orientation the shaft was inserted during the re-assembly. Rather than re-do it, I'll just re-wire from #6 and go on down the road . . . or better yet, head down the road for the first time, as it were.

Thank you everyone for your help. Probably fire right up, now.

Thanks for the tip on the tool from Gert. Will contact him.

"[color=#ff8800]For the record, the distributor was re-built with EFI[/color]........"
Electronic Fuel Injection? I assume you meant an electronic triggering device such as Pertronix. If that rebuild involved removal of the shaft then it's likely that the centrifugal adv. flyweight ass'y was re-installed 180 out. It's the relationship between the shaft and the advance mechanism that can be 180 off. Though it's not too difficult to change it (that little clip down in the hole is a pain to remove), but if you are happy with it as-is, then leave it.

My two-bits worth.
F

Yes, EFI . . . :ohmy: Neat trick, huh? Early morning ramblings. Will look into the weights, Frank. Thanks for your help.

Frank:
Do you have a link to your earlier thread on this topic? I'm just finishing the re-wiring of my '53 Hornet & the next item will be to fire her up. Now after following this thread I'm concerned I might have this same problem. I want to check that every thing is set up right BEFORE I turn the key.
thanks for your help
J

If you set #1 at TDC "ish" and the rotor is aimed at the #1 plug wire position on the cap, then all is well in this department.
The piece I wrote 'way back was in regard to the discrepancy betwixt the two manuals. Either I'm wrong (could that be?) or no one else has noticed it. I'm not organized enough to be able to find it now, but could re-do it if anyone cares.
Frank

Thanks Frank I'll just follow your advise and cross my fingers

regards

J

J-

Here is the answer:
IF #1 is at TDC (finger test) and flywheel is showing the graduated marks in window at rear of engine, set up wires as normal with #1 where rotor on distributor is pointed.
IF #1 is at TDC (finger test), and the flywheel is 180 out, then the shaft is backwards on the distributor. which either needs to be reversed, or start with wire #6 where rotor is pointed on distributor.

With either situation, keep firing order the same, clockwise around distributor. 1-5-3-6-2-4, starting with #1, or 6-2-4-1-5-3 starting with #6.

Russell, simply take the distributor out like frank has previously described, remove the breaker plate and vac adv.,remove the small clip found under the rotor, pick the shaft up, turn it 180 and then put it back in. Problem is now simply resolved,in time and still has the correct reference as the book shows. This will take about 30 minutes. .

J Lombard
I just located the piece I wrote on the #1 vs #6 instructions and see that I was wrong.......sort of. The two books [i]do[/i] have opposing instructions regarding the cyl. on which to set the crank position, but they also have corresponding instructions on where to set the distributor rotor before installing the distributor.
So....the end result is the same in either case.
The only reason I can surmise for the change in procedure is that the later version echoes the instructions for timing chain/sprocket installation. Installation of the distributor with the crank in that position (#6 firing for sprocket/chain mounting) requires that you also install the distributor in the #6 firing position as well, as long as the crank hasn't been moved.

F