Glad that unit worked for you, Charlie. I had the same problem when I converted my '51 to 12v, and kept notes on what worked. Those notes have been helpful to a lot of folks. It's nice to have a club that's devoted to helping folks keep their Hudsons running, rather than who's got the best one!

Hey Park,

Something that could be written up and published in the library at all?

Now that you have them working, get crazy with them and be safer.
Rear at night in my '53 >>>> https://vimeo.com/120428548

Paul, I developed a four page "Technical Notes" piece not long after I did my 12v conversion, in 2004. I'd been surprised that almost everyone doing a 12v conversion had to start from scratch, so figured the community could benefit from some basic info, such as the bulb numbers for all the 12v equivalents of the bulbs on a Hudson. And what do about the various electrical components on the cars . . . starter motor, heater fan motor, etc. The last update was in 2012. Many of our members and other "Forum folks" know about this document, but many don't. Ken Cates has kept the latest version on his very informative web site for many years, and it's likely on a couple of other sites, but I don't believe it's included in Alex Burr's reference material. I'm always happy to email a copy to anyone requesting one. ( I do have a web site, but it's only photos and related text. I need to see if I can post the 12v conversion document there).

[b]Philosophy note[/b]: My approach to doing a 12v conversion is a "How would an engineer do this," not "What's the quickest, easiest, cheapest way to do this." This conservative approach is based on an education as electrical systems instructor, followed by a BSEE from U of Illinois. And many years of working on automotive electrical systems, mostly Hudsons. You will hear many folks report that they've run this or that item unmodified on 12v for years, with no problem, and those claims are true. But one is rather "running at the edge" when pumping four times the original designed electrical power into some of these devices (that's what you're doing by doubling the applied voltage). So in the interest of long term reliability, I'd rather make some minor changes that will have these items running at the power level they were designed for, or replace them with items designed to run on 12v, whichever is easier and most practical.

Here is the link to Park's pages on Ken Cates' Stepdown Page:

http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/12v%20conv%20data%20ParkWaldrop.pdf

Russ
Can't open this?

It says "direct linking not allowed" when you get to Ken's website. Not sure why, or how that works.

Might try [b][size=5] [url= http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/ ]THIS[/url] :[/size][/b]

Then select Park's article from the menu at left of Ken's homepage.

Park's guidance on the conversion was spot-on. I did go the route of a 3-wire alternator and managed to get my amp dummy light to become an alternator dummy light. I also opted to convert clock and radio to 12 volt. Starter converted as well. Well worth it. American Autowire provided a new fuse block tucked under the dash but much more accessible than inline fuses scattered throughout the wiring. The Hudsonly, Dave