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Did you install a 12 volt flasher and all 12 volt bulbs?? Walt

installed 12 volt flasher and bulbs pilot light stays on but lights or flasher doesn't work

Suppose we start from the beginning here. You didn't say what year Hudson you have, so I'm assuming you have a 1948 to 1954 StepDown Hudson (the most popular years). You also didn't mention whether your signal switch is the original Hudson type, or an aftermarket switch.

Would the flasher system operate independently from the car, to begin with? Let's say you ran a long wire directly from the battery terminal (negative terminal, since a Hudson is positive ground) to the flasher. And then you either ran a long wire to the lights from the flasher switch or wired some spare sockets with bulbs (not attached to the car) to the flasher switch. And then of course grounded the sockets by running a wire from their housing to the positive terminal of the battery.

In other words, you would be bypassing all of your car's wiring just to make sure that the flasher works to begin with.

If it does, that's good, and you can then begin to isolate the different connections in the car.

One BIG problem could be that all the light sockets are no longer properly grounded to the car, due to rust in the body panels that hold the sockets. So, use a jumper wire with alligator clips, and clamp it tightly to each socket, connecting the other end to the battery (again, the positive terminal). If that produces results, then you know you have to solder a ground wire to the socket and securely connect the other end to a good solid portion of the car's frame.

Another question I'd have: Is this the right switch and is it hooked up correctly? If your car has only one taillight (bright filament for brakes, dim filament for tail lights), then your switch wiring has to be routed through the brakes for the rear lights to work correctly. If you have a "dedicated" turn signal bulb at the back, the switch can be wired to this socket and you don't have to worry about the brake lights.

The only other question would be the flasher itself (not the switch). I am not sure, but I think there are different flashers for different amperages of bulbs. Maybe yours is geared to a much brighter bulb and thus your car's weaker bulbs won't make it flash.

it is a 1952 Hollywood wasp with the original turn signal switch have changed all sockets and or grounded turn signal pilot light stays on changed to 12 volt system

That's perplexing. Just grabbing at straws here, but I'l ask....
1. The light stays on for as long as you engage the lever? And then goes off when you release it?
2. This happens whether you engage the lever "right" or "left"?
3. This switch has been in the car for a long time? Or did you just install it?
4. If it's been in the car, did it ever work?
5. If it's recently installed, are you sure that the wiring follows the diagram correctly?
6. What is the number on the flasher? Maybe, somehow, you have one that is geared for brighter lights, and your "normal" lights don't draw the sufficient amperage to heat up the flasher element and make it blink.
7. Did you replace the 6-volt indicator bulb with a 12-volt version, in addition to the actual lamps at the front and rear of the car?

I've found that some 12v flashers don't work well with our stepdown Hudsons. Try NAPA 7310, or Tridon EL-13.

Hey, Park, in regard to the flasher issue.
One oddity I've been ignoring is my flasher indicator glows dimly when directional switch in neutral position. Suggests low voltage applied. When left or right flashers activated, outside flashers work well, and indicator lamp flashes brightly. Is this worth chasing down?

David, I'd ignore it as long as everything's working OK.

Everything is. Thanks!