We spent some time testing the wiring and learned two things. #1 there is likely to be more than one problem. #2 much of the trouble seems to lead back to the headlight switch. Power goes in but only some of the wires then have power coming out. My friend is going to take it home and open it up in hopes that it is just some easy to fix corrosion.

What is the correct name for the item I have attached pictures of[b]?[/b]

Where/Who can I get a replacement from[b]?[/b]

I think it would be called the "switch". The little silver rectangular box is the circuit breaker (these are still available new, I understand).

The entire switch unit may be available NOS from various Hudson vendors who advertise in the WTN; my suggestion is simply to prepare an e-mail including these photos, go through the WTN classifieds, jot down some of the suppliers' e-mail addresses, then send out a mass mailing. I'll bet someone has one still with the parts tag on it. (You might want to wait, however, until you have a small list of "needs", then list them all in this e-mail. That way you won't have to do this again and again for every single item you need.

However, my guess is that you can indeed go inside the switch (by prying back the "ears" that hold it all together), fine-sand the contacts, maybe put some electrical grease in there so this won't corrode soon, and put the thing back together again.

The circuit breakers have a nasty habit of cutting off the headlights at night, without warning, which can be quite disconcerting. The first thought would then be to replace the circuit breaker. However, it may be doing this for a reason: i.e., there is a short or bad connection somewhere in the system.

For not much money, you can install a headlight relay (double, for high & low beams, or two separate relays). This will probably result in brighter headlights, since you are now using all those switches and wiring merely to direct a signal to the relay. The big-amp stuff is handled only by the relay, and it sends that power directly to the headlights. Otherwise you have miles of cruddy old wiring and corroded switches that have to deal with a formidable amount of electricity!

Michael, make sure that you look at the shop manual schematic. These switches don't operate like they look. I think it needs 2 different power supplies to operate correctly. D

Also, as Jon recommended, a headlite relay is a good improvement, and very easy to install.

#1 Where can I get a better copy of the wiring diagram? I have a reprint of the manual but it is not the best copy of the wiring diagram. I would love to have something that is more readable.

#2 How can I tell what is suppose to be feeding power to the switch and what is just feeding things from the switch? The wiring diagram descriptions don't make it obvious to me where the power is actually coming from.

Thank you all for your help. I have a deal going with myself. If I can manage to actually fix my electrical problem before I sell the car then I shouldn't actually sell because I can maintain it. If I cant, it should go to an owner who can.

Michael,
I have found the best diagram for copying and enlarging to be the one contained in your owner manual.
I took that to Office max and had them copy and enlarge both the wiring and Lubrication charts,(they are
back to back) and then laminate for me. Looks great! much easier to read than copies from the Shop manual.
I "colored" mine according to the colors listed on the diagram before the laminating step.

I don't have copies of the 1952 but do have 53 and 54 that I could have copied if anyone needs this.
Don't remember how much but would do this for my expense and postage.

"Ric" Pinder
contact info is in the roster. No changes in address and phone since 1975 !