Peter,

I also have a Hornet that I got from CA last summer that looks almost like yours. It has the DG or BW auto trans, twin-H, power brakes (treadlevac) and power steering and needs complete restoration. The engine can be rebuilt.

The tranny can also be rebuilt. Parts may not be as readily available, but there are sources. I had this conversation with others and this tranny is really every bit as good as the Hydramatic.

Welcome!
Don't give up on the Straight 6, if you truly want to stay with original powerplant. Mine was seized for 30 years, with enough water accumulated in the oil pan to rust holes through the bottom of the pan.
Got my 53 Hornet from California with 3 stuck pistons. Eventually had to take head off, crank out, soak in penetrating oil, and pound out. Cylinders bored, new pistons ,etc. Master rebuild kit around $1500.
Many motors can be unseized with less effort. First remove all spark plugs and spray liberal amount of good penetrating oil (some love kroil, I love WD40 Specialist or 1:1 mix of tranny oil and acetone) into all cylinders, let sit overnight. Next day with large wrench (make sure tranny in neutral) try to turn over. If no good, off with head and valve covers, spray more oil on pistons and valves, next day tap on each piston and any stuck valves with dead blow hammer, try to turn. If no good, step 3, remove crank and any free pistons so you can isolate the stuck one(s). These get extra pounding with dead blow, brass drift, etc until freed. To completely remove a piston you may need to relieve lip at top of cylinder bores, but first task is to get them moving.
A rebuilt hydramatic can be had for about $1600 including $300 core- very reliable when maintained. It was GM's and Cadillac's gold standard, and is an excellent shifter.
I don't know much about the aluminum head, but warping was a problem. Make sure it is not too thin (turned too many times). Replacement heads can be gotten on the cheap.
Bottom line: may not be stuck as bad as you think.
Also, don't forget to join club and get WTN.
Dave C

Welcome Peter

Nice car. Looks like you have started work on it. Where are you located? The license plate is still Calif.. Are you in need of any parts? The engine can be rebuilt. The 308 engine runs so smooth and quiet that I often fine myself driving faster than I should.

There was some discussion a while ago on the O'Forum (at top of page) about the BW trans. Seems there was a plus side to the rugged trans in that they also get better gas mileage than hydromatic.

I had a BW trans in another make car and it worked great. 69 AMX 340 HP 390 engine.

Also, if you should switch from 2 barrel to Twin-H expect MPG loss. When I switched my Hornet from two barrel car to Twin-H the mileage dropped from 20 mpg to 16 mpg. I was not expecting that. Had I known I would have kept the 2 barrel carb. The Twin-H look got the better of me. Hope with some finer tuning to make some improvement.

I hope you keep us up to date on your progress.

Lee O'Dell

[b]Hearsay is just that - hearsay.
Hudson used the DG trannsmission when the GM hydromatic plant burned down.
They are a more complex transmission than the hydromatic and it is getting harder to find someone that knows how to properly rebuild them.
[/b]
Now for the skinny on the BW Detroit Gear transmission -
http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/dg250.txt
from the above link
Borg Warner - Detroit Gear 250 Transmission -
The Studebaker Automatic Drive transmission was - and is - one very fine
transmission. Popular Science did a very nice piece on the Automatic Drive
in 1950.
Automatic Drive was a joint effort of Studebaker and Borg-Warner (Detroit
Gear Division). The transmission allows the driver to switch from torque
converter-gear drive to direct drive and back again at any speed between 18
mph and 58 mph. Above 58, the torque converter is always locked out, below
18 it is always locked in.
Popular Science gave this summary of what a driver can do with Automatic
Drive:
"One criticism often voiced against automatic transmissions is that they
deprive the driver of choice. That this isn't true of the Studebaker/Borg-
Warner drive is shown by the following description of what happens when the
selector lever is in the drive position. It's also eloquent proof that
motorists must understand their transmissions to get the most out of them.
"At the moment of starting, with the selector lever at "D," the power
train is through the torque converter and intermediate gear. Starting
torque ratio in the transmission (not counting the advantage of rear-axle
ratio) is 3.08 to 1, or more than three turns of the engine crankshaft for
every turn of the propeller shaft. Automatic shifts from intermediate gear
to direct drive occur within the following limits, depending on speed,
throttle position and load:
"1. Starting with a very light accelerator depression, the transmission
shifts from intermediate to direct at about 18 mph.
"2. Starting with full throttle (not depressed past the kick-down abutment
on the floor-board), the transmission shifts into direct at about 35
mph.
"3. Staring with any accelerator depression between between light and full
throttle, the transmission shifts into direct between 18 and 35 mph, depending
on accelerator position.
"4. Starting with full throttle and accelerator depressed past the kick-
down point, the shift into direct drive occurs at about 58 mph.
"5. Coasting in direct with accelerator released, the transmission downshifts
into intermediate gear plus converter at 12 mph.
6. Direct drive may be over-ruled to provide added torque available in
intermediate by depressing the throttle to the kick-down point at any
speed below 50 mph."
I also can attest to the economy of the transmission. My 55 Commander regular
turns in 24-26 mpg.
Leighzer
Gordon,
My DG250M does the same thing but you have to rev it up pretty high. What
causes that?
My tranny works great, with the exception of reverse.
-------------
That is the convertor going into lock up mode. This is a good way to
destroy
something. You should not rev these cars (AT's) to high rpm in neutral or
park. I learned the hard way about 40 years ago. Gary L.
----
I don't know about any other modern cars, but BMW has a very clear warning
not to rev the motor of an automatic trans car with it in neutral or park.
Substantial damage to the trans will result.
-Dick-
Any early shop manual should have complete information. This is a very
sophisticated transmission still unmatched in some ways by modern units.
From a Jaguar site-
http://www.vintagejag.com/Parts/Transmission_Rebuilding.html
Automatic Transmissions
We no longer send out rebuilt automatic transmissions unless we are confident that it will be installed by someone who will listen to directions and take the time to make sure everything is adjusted properly.[b] There are a lot of details, patience and experiece required to get one installed and operating correctly, particulary the DG250[/b]. We will rebuild your automatic transmission and torque converter if your car is in our shop and we can install it for you. We do offer rebuilt bands, oil pumps, valve bodies, governors, solenoids and all other internal lparts (some good used) along with repair guides and consulting* for the do-it-yourselfer. Rebuilt transmission prices include a rebuilt torque converter.
Description Rebuilt Price Core Charge
DG 250 Borg Warner 3-band 2,995.00 800.00

As far as engines being frozen up, I pull the plugs and spray kroil down into the cylinders, then take the valve covers off the side and spray the valve guides down and let set. I've had more issues with frozen valves- guides then frozen pistons.
I have a 53 262 that is the next candidate for the procedure!

I am trying to get the motor unstuck but the last owner broke off 3 bolts in the head and it is aluminum. Car has a little rot on the hood and 2 small spots in the back above the bumper where the chrome goes. The bottom of the car is amazing never been rusted or fixed. There is no other rust on the whole car. I lucked out, because i was building the super wasp which has rocker rust and bottom of the doors and quaters, but the floors are great and trunk area. It is already set up with camaro sub frame that is the way i bought it, and has Small block chevy with automatic trans. Would like to keep this hornet original because of it condition but i can't spend $5k on rebuilding the drive train. I have looked around at prices and i am going to just keep looking. I will get the motor unstuck just takes some time and becarefull how i disasemble the engine. I will be asking for advise on this because these cars are just so nice when they are finished.

I did find my VIN on the Hudson production numbers web site. And the car was built in California

All Hudsons were built in Detroit, until late fall of 1954 when production moved to Kenosha, WI for the final cars (55-57 models). I think what the others are telling you (which is what I agree with) is to restore the drive train you have. Hudson engines are great engines. You may have to find a cast iron head for the 308. Rebuild the DG/BW trans. Doing this will not be cheap though, unless you're able to do a lot of work yourself. The car will be more valuable in the long run with stock/original running gear, but it will probably be more expensive than putting in a SBC with modern tranny. Total engine and tranny rebuilt is probably around $7-7.5K

One alternative to an expensive engine job would be to watch the ads in H.A.M.B. and local Craigslists, to see if any street rodders are converting Hudsons to "other" power. You may then be able to purchase a good-running Hudson engine (and transmission, probably) from them for a reasonable price, and just drop it in your car.

welcome on board!
I am myself still a fresh man and awaiting better weather to put my hands on my recently acquired car.

Good luck and success when restoring your car!

Thanks for all the info. I am sure the trans is fine car only has 70k on it just the motor is the problem. I have the engine full of marvel and i am trying to get the head off over the broken head bolts. The bolts are stuck in the aluminum once i get the head off then i can see what is wrong. The oil in the car looks great and there is no radiator, the block from the outside looks great still has original paint ect.

You can not go by the look of the oil after a car has set for years. The sediment will sink to the bottom of the pan as the oil sets.
Get you some Kroil and soak those head bolts.
http://www.kanolabs.com/msn/

It would be a good idea to drop the pan and remove the crud. When I removed the pan on my 47 PU that set for many years and had no oil filter I had to poke a screw driver in drain hole to allow glob like oil to drain out. I had to use a putty knife to remove the almost solidified crud. The crud was about 1 1/2 inch thick.

Lee O'Dell

I once drained a quart of water out of a model A that sat for years in AL much of it outside. Thought we were in big trouble but turned out to be condensation then came the oil. Guess the oil was suspended on top as the condensation settled to the bottom. No problems after start up.